Trailing Arm Shield Bracket Kit

I have been driving without my Air Deflector Plates for almost two years.  One day I decided to finally install my plates.  The plates were clean and ready to go, the car was jacked up...then, the typical DeLorean issues arise...as soon as you tackle one project another problem shows up.  The bolts that hold the plate were rusted out and basically useless.

What to do?  There is a replacement part available at most DeLorean vendors.  The Deflector Retaining Strips (#K111230) are stainless and a better design than original, more on that later.  These are about $26 a pair, plus shipping/tax.  I was in no hurry to get these.  One day, while surfing on eBay, I found a pair of these for $25, shipped.  They were basically new, still in the bag.  The seller bought these and had them for over ten years and never installed them. 

The kit I got was from P.J. Grady, Inc.  He calls these Trailing Arm Shield Brackets (#110811G), while everyone else calls these Deflector Retaining Strips.

Installation is simple, very simple.  The hardest part of this project is getting to the existing bolts.  This means taking out the battery...which means I will need to reset my clock and radio stations.

Batter compartment with Retainer Screws

There are six original Retainer Screws (Big Head Stud M6 #SP10250), three on each side.  They are held in place with silicone (or similar).  These popped right out easily with a pry of a screwdriver.

Rusted out screws

Screws underneath the battery were most likely rusted out because of the battery.   At least on previous owner may have had a leaky battery with would explain the condition of the screws.

Original screws versus the new brackets

The new design features a three stainless steel bolts, welded to a stainless steel bar.

Bracket fits perfectly

The design locks the bolts in place, they will not rotate as you tighten the bolts.  Original three screw set up can loosen up, especially if the three decade old silicone starts to deteriorate. 

Silicone for waterproofing

Speaking of silicone, it is recommended to squirt a little around the base to seal out any moister.  A little piping of silicone, like decorating a cake, around the base of each screw will do the trick.  There is an option to use pop rivets, note the holes in the plate, to secure it to the fiberglass body.  This will require drilling and a pop rivet gun.  I elected not to do this, mainly due to laziness, and I did not want to drill in to the fiberglass.

Driver's side bracket installed

Instead of the pop rivets, I just screwed in the nuts holding the bracket in place, so the silicone can cure.  Then, I will be ready to install my Air Deflector Plates.

Bonus Round:  I was going to install the Air Deflector Plates, but I just got a set of Trailing Arm Bolts.  These are new bolts made of Inconel, similar to the world famous 'Toby TABs', from DeLorean Parts Northwest.  In the last few months, there have been a few pairs sold on eBay.  One pair went for over $900.  These are a hot item.

My new TABs are from DMC-Midwest, Dave Swingle had a bunch made.  At a mere $130, shipped, I picked up a pair.  Yeah, Swingle TABs!

So, the Air Deflector Plates will wait until I get the new Trailing Arm Bolts replaced/installed.  That should give the silicone plenty of time to cure.

One more thing:  Happy Birthday, John.

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - January 2014

Here we go, new year means new asshole telemarketers to deal with.  Well, not really.  Sometimes they are return callers, and I really do not deal with them.

3 January 2014
  310-879-0523  Gardena, CA - Like I said, return caller.  This would be their fourth call, not that I am keeping track.  This was one of those late calls, coming at 8:45PM.  Who the fuck does 'business' at that hour?  I know Target it open, but Target is awesome, there is a need for Target to stay open.  No one likes telemarketers, so why open so late?  Hell, why the fuck open at all.  Fuck off!

6 January 2014
   360-322-6663  Marysville, WA - Looks like a new player in the game.  Or, just a new number, I  received a call from Marysville in August of 2013.  Those fucking hipsters in the Pacific Northwest are not only an eyesore, they are an ear sore.  Ha, see that I did there?  Welcome to Fuckoffville.

8 January 2014
   701-771-9654  Rugby, MD - I wonder if this is where the sport of rugby originated.  Do you think the telemarketers have a rugby team?  Probably not, do not seem like the active type.  I hope these telemarketers get tackled by a rugby player. Fuck you.

LED AC Panel Faceplate for the DeLorean

Dave McKeen's LED AC Panel Faceplate (in green), I stole this image from Dave's website

Dave McKeen, aka Bitsyncmaster, has done it again.  His new product is an LED AC Panel Faceplate.  I already have Dave's Dome Light Timer Relay and Solid State RPM Relay.  As you can see, I am a fan of Dave's work.  His new project replaces all seven light bulbs behind the AC panel and lights the faceplate using LED's.

The faceplate is available in green and blue.  Green matches the original look of the DeLorean AC Panel, while blue gives the interior a more 'modern' look.  Since I made blue LED window switches and have a blue lights on my after market radio, I ordered a blue one from Dave.

Before - LED bulbs

One of the first upgrades I did when I got the car was to swap out the incandescent bulbs for LED ones.  This included the seven bulbs behind the AC Panel.  I was already running LED's, white LED's, which meant the panel was still green. 

Preparing faceplate

Installation is pretty simple, thanks to Dave's detail instructions.  I read the instructions before I purchased to make sure I could handle the installation process.  The faceplate needs some prep work so the LED's can shine through.  So, first step is removing the faceplate.  I took it off during the week and did not finish the installation until the weekend.  I drove around a few days without the faceplate on, and boy are those LED bulbs bright.

Sanding off the white paint

The faceplate used a system of 'light channels' to distribute the light throughout the panel.  These channels are painted white so light would not escape.  I assume it also helped with bouncing the light back where it was needed.  We need to remove this paint so the LED's can shine through.

Finished faceplate

It took about an hour for me to sand out the paint.  The instructions call for wet sanding with 320 grit.  I went to 600, just to be safe.  Now, we are ready to install the LED Faceplate.

How many times have I taken out the Center Console?

In order to get to the wiring, we need to take out the Center Console.  This is not the first, and definitely not the last time I have done this.  Once the large Center Console piece is out, the wires can be accessed, this also prevents any damage to the Center Console while I do some wire work.  Not Kung Fu wire work, I am talking about snipping and soldering wires, crimping wires, and heat shrinking tubing. 

Wires crimped and ready for heat shrink tubing

The kit comes with everything you need, including wire crimps and heat shrink tubing.  I am not that familiar with crimping wires, I usually solder them.  Crimping is a lot easier and cleaner than soldering, at least with my soldering skills.  After all the wiring is done, everything get put back together.

LED Panel installed

The new LED Panel looks great.  The lights look brighter than the LED bulbs I had installed before, and they are in blue.

If you are interested in acquiring a kit, you can contact David McKeen at his website.  You may also be interested in his other products.

Diffuser Lens for DeLorean Door Lights

Last month, I installed the Door Light Kit from deloreana.com.  Although I liked the tic-tac-toe pattern that was showing through the lenses, I wanted to see what it would look like with a diffuser lens.

Taking measurements for diffuser lens

I took measurements for the lenses.  There just happens to to be a recess in the stock lens where a diffuser lens can fit in.  Once I had the measurements, I drew it out in Illustrator and had the lenses cut using 0.090" acrylic on the laser cutter.

Six lenses cut from the laser cutter

The acrylic lenses fit perfectly into the stock lens.  They are also perfectly clear.  Off to the sand blaster.

Sandblasted lenses

We did not have any frosted lenses.  The next best thing is sand blasting clear acrylic.  Now, just pop out the stock lenses, snap the diffuser lens in, and pop them back in to the doors.

Diffuser lenses in

The tic-tac-toe pattern is gone.  There is a little hint of a hot spots where the LED's are but the results are acceptable.  The photo above is not the best.  I like the softer glow, I think I will stick with this look.

Tom at deloreana.com, offers lenses for $20 a set.  If you do not have access to a laser cutter or too lazy to make your own diffuser lenses, get a set from Tom when you order your LED Door Light Kit.

Semi Broken Button on the Nike FuelBand

I have had my Nike FuelBand for about four months.  One day, while pushing the button, I heard a click.  It seems that the button broke.

The good news - It was not fully broken.  The button feels like it is dislodged from its place, but still connected and sort of works.

The bad news - I have to use a blunt object to press the button.  I have to hit it just right to engage the button.  The silicone area protecting the button is showing some wear from my finger nail poking at it, trying to get to the button.  Blunt object is working, for now.

Damaged button, silicone about to rip

I did some research, and this has happened to a few people.  Since I have the original black version I am unable to see how the button is broken under the silicone skin.  Nike has worked something out with some users, sometimes replacing the FuelBand.  This of course requires a sales receipt.  Unfortunately, I got mine off of eBay, so no real receipt.

Luckily for me (and I guess Nike, too), the new SE version that is 'better' built.  I ordered one for fear that my current band will soon completely fail.  I ordered it directly from Nike.  Hopefully, any problems I have with it will be be resolved as fast as my NikeFuel Points issue.

Check back for my review of the Nike FuelBand SE and possibly some experiments with my old FuelBand.

Ti-Click RT Pen - Kickstarter

No secret that I love Titanium.  I love it so much, I had a piece screwed into my bones.

A few months back, there was a Kickstarter campaign for a titanium pen.  I also have a thing for pens.  So, being the best of both worlds, I ordered this pen.  Over my vacation, it arrived and I finally got to check it out this morning.

Ti-Click RT unboxing

The pen comes in a nice box with foam inserts.  I did not recall that the pen came with a pen sleeve, so that was a nice surprise.  I will never use it.  If I am carrying the pen, I would use the handy clip.  If storing the pen, it would be in the cool box.  Nice bonus, but unnecessary.

Ti-Click RT, titanium pen by Big Idea Design

The design of the pen is simple, nothing too fancy.  Being made from titanium is fancy enough to me.  The click action is a little 'sticky', but I think this is what you get when you have metal rubbing on metal, not a smooth as a plastic clicker.  I also feel that the top of the button is too hard-edged, should have been rounded or beveled.  There are no other hard edges on the rest of the pen.

The clip seems strong.  The rounded tip of the clip is nice and will not catch on any papers or clothing.

Writing is very smooth, the included ink cartridge is Schneider Express in medium, black.  One interesting feature is the spring is attached to the pen tip.  When you need to replace the ink, and you unscrew the tip, you would not loose the spring.  Great little feature.

Pen is comfortable in the hand, due to the simple/traditional design.  Overall, a very good pen.

Not sure where you can get one.  Item is not currently listed on the company website, but that is a good place to check. 

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - December 2013

I was on vacation for most of November.  As you have noticed, there was a big gap in telemarketing calls.  New month, new entry on the blog.  Here we go for December.

2 December 2013
   731-489-4058  TN, USA - I know this has nothing to do with telemarketing or Tennessee, but today is Britney Spears' birthday.  She is 32...feel old?  Back to the telemarketers.  Fuck you for ruining Britney's birthday.  Leave Britney alone!

4 December 2013
   310-879-0523  Gardena, CA - This was the best telemarketing call, ever.  One ring, and they hung up...as if they knew I was going to ignore them.  I am hoping that the person on the other end hates their job, as they should, and decided to meet his/her quota of calls, but just hang up after the first ring.  If that is the case, I applaud you.  But since you are still a telemarketer, fuck you!

7 December 2013
   919-218-1674  Raleigh, NC - I make a remark about Pearl Harbor and telemarketers, every time they call on this day.  I think it is more on an injustice to call on a Saturday.  Telemarketers have no respect for veterans and civilians.  Fuck you! 

9 December 2013
   310-879-0523 Gardena, CA - Second call from this number, see above.  This was 'legitimate missed call' by me.  I wonder if they hung up half way through the call.  Either way, fuck off.

14 December 2013
   213-200-1974  Los Angeles, CA - Oh hey, have you fucked yourself, lately?  Well, feel free to fuck off.

Here is how you and many others found this page on my blog.  Welcome.  18 MAR 2014

19 December 2013
   321-632-4732  Cocoa, FL  - You know I am going to make some sort of cocoa joke.  Cocoa bean, cocoa butter, chocolate.  Oh, I got it.  Take some cocoa butter and lube up an ash tray shaped like Florida and shove it up your ass.  Put a few cocoa beans in there for good measure.  When you are done, take what comes out and make yourself a nice cup of hot chocolate.  Fuck you!

   
   240-318-1560  MD, USA - It has been a while since I had multiple calls in a day.  Also, I think these are new numbers.  Imagine, there are thousands of telemarketers using thousands of numbers to harass you and me.  How are these people still in business?  Fuck you!

21 December 2013  
   240-318-1560  MD, USA -  Oh, those lovely Saturday morning calls...and a return caller.  That is two strikes, need one more.  Oh, you are a fucking telemarketer.  There, three strikes...fuck off.

23 December 2013
  240-318-1560  MD, USA - Hold on...Maryland...possibly Washington DC.  Holy shit, this might be important.  Then again, it might just be a fucking telemarketer.  Just to be safe...fuck you!

26 December 2013
  414-232-5011  WI, USA - Glad the terrorists had a good Christmas.  One would never think that they would get Christmas Eve and Christmas off.    I bet they are the uncle/aunt that no one talks about.  The only time you call is to harass them...oh, which is why telemarketing is the perfect job for you.  Evey one, including those in your family, hate you...go fuck yourself.

27 December 2013  
   240-318-1560  MD, USA - Four calls in seven days, and four of those days were holidays or weekend days.  Oh, I forgot.  They called on a fucking Saturday.  Sorry I miss your call, call back tomorrow and I will do my best to ignore your sorry ass...then blog about it.  Because, that is what I do.  Only slightly more productive than your shitty job.  Fuck you!

   310-879-0523 Gardena, CA -  Third call from this number.  Gardena is pretty much the ghetto.  Upper middle class ghetto, but none the less, ghetto.  Having telemarketers in your ZIP code is not helping your property value.

28 December 2013
   240-318-1560  MD, USA - Make that five calls in eight days, and another Saturday call.  Fuck you into the New Year.

New LED Door Light Kit for the DeLorean

LED Door Light Kit by Tom Niemczewski

About a month ago, I got this cool LED Door Light Kit from Tom Niemczewski at deloreana.com.  I finally found time to install these lights.  Not that this took a lot of time.  But like all my DeLorean projects, I like to document the process whenever I can.  Here are my first impressions, quick review, and installation process.

Great packaging

The kit comes a custom foam box.  Just by looking at the box, you know these are going to be quality items.  I have to admit, I was hesitant at first to get these, but the box sold it.  Perfectly cut foam, with recessed pockets for the lights.  The cover has a (I would guess) laser gut logo.  Just beautiful...like a box of chocolates.

Close up of one of the LED assemblies

Remove the cover and you see all six lights laid out (see image at top of post).  Four surface mounted LED's make up each assembly, along with some techy-microchipy things.  In other words, these are really nicely made.  You can tell that Tom spent a lot of time and took at lot of care in making these.

LED bulbs from DMC

One of the reasons I hesitated in purchasing the kit was, I had already swapped out the original incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs from DMC.  This was one of the first modifications I did when I first got the car to make it 'more modern'.

DMC replacement LED rear (red) door light

Here we go, one of the easiest mods you can do to your car.  As easy as changing a light bulb.  For comparison, here is a shot of the rear DMC LED bulb in the light.  Notice the hot spot, not very good displacement of light.  Can you even 'displace' light?  You know what I mean.

Removing the lens

In order to get to the bulbs, you need to carefully remove the lens.  I used a flat head screwdriver to carefully pry out the lens.

New surface mounted LED bulb installed

The new LED's are directional, so make sure you have them in the right way.  There is only two ways, so it is just a matter of plugging it in and seeing if it lights up.  Oh, you will know when it lights up.

Nice grid pattern

With the lens placed back in, it creates a nice grid pattern.  I like this since it matches the grid like tail lights.  Tom sells the kit with a set of diffuser lenses to 'correct' the grid pattern.  I elected to keep the grid look.  I could always have some lenses cut if I ever decide to have a defused look.  This project should only take 10-15 minutes to do.

DMC replacement LED front (amber) lights

For comparison, photos of the rear lights show what they look like in bright daylight.  Above is photo of lights in semi light.  The hot spot is more apparent in these photos.

Sexy grid pattern is so eighties

I should note that I have my lenses in backwards.  The textured side faces in, smooth side out.  Not sure if it makes any difference, but I think the light gets dispersed better if the facets are closer to the light.  I could be totally wrong.

Bad photo of the new LED lights complete darkness

The LED's are very bright.  Above is a bad photo of the lights in complete darkness.  All photo here are taken with an iPod.  Not the best camera, but good enough.  You can still see the grid pattern at night, note the lens flare to the left of the main light.  The camera was not able to pick this up.

Comparing size and shape of the different LED bulbs

One of the design feature that I love about Tom's LED kit is the low profile design.  Having the light source further away from the lens give the light more time to spread.  The taller 'standard' LED bulb is right up against the lens, resulting in that hot spot.  Also, having four surface mounted LED's spread out in the corners help with better light distribution.  Even with the optional defusing lens, the standard LED bulbs would cause hot spots.

This is a great set.  Although a price a little high, I think it is well worth the price, even at $80.  They are really well made and they look great.  For an extra $20, you can get frosted lenses from Tom.  We must not forget about the packaging...just awesome.

If you have not upgraded to LED's, I highly recommend this set.  But you better hurry, there are only about 20 left.  The alternative is getting LED bulbs from your favourite DMC vendor or LED specialist. 

It is good to know that there are people like Tom out there...all the way out there in Poland.  He makes a great product.  Not only that, he makes sure that you get your item by providing tracking number and email updates.  I even got an email telling me that my package had arrived at the post office.  That is great customer service.  He is also working on a kit for the side marker lights.  Once he has those ready, you can bet that I will buy a set.

For technical information and specifications, and how to order, please visit Tom Niemczewski's site at deloreana.com.

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - November 2013

Wow, over a week between calls.  That time change must have messed up their internal clocks.  Which is the only 'benefit' to setting clocks back and forth - fucking up everyones' internal clocks.  That is a lame argument, since I get calls at various times during the day and from multiple time zones.

7 November 2013
   304-988-4693  WV, USA - Hey, first call from West Virginia.  Not that it matters, I still wish ill will on your sorry ass.  Why is there not an East Virgina?  There is a North and South for Carolina and Dakota.  I think Virgina should change its name to East Virgina.  Obviously, West Virgina was an afterthought.  Oh, better yet...change West Virgina to Next to Virgina.

   414-232-5011  WI, USA - Hello, Wisconsin...fuck off, Wisconsin!

11 November 2013
   617-273-8317  MA, USA - I looked up the nunber.  Could be a legit wrong number, or it could be a fucking telemarketer.  Either way...just to be safe...fuck you.

26 November 2013
   925-420-1433  East San Francisco Bay Area - I bet you are wondering why there was a big gap in between calls.  Well, I was out of town and I turned off my phone for the entire trip.  So, no calls received...but the automated telebot kept rambling while my outgoing message played and they sort of left a message.  I am on vacation, fuck you.

27 November 2013
   925-420-1432  East San Francisco Bay Area - Wow, such an innovative tactic.  Call me from another line that is just one number off.  Brilliant!  Too bad, I am still on vacation.  Even if I was not on vacation, I still would not pick up...and, fuck you.

30 November 2013
   325-423-0276  Llano, TX - One last call before the end of the month.  Saturday morning calls are the best.  A chance to sleep in and some fucker calls you, trying to sell you shit you do not need.  Fuck you. 

Mounting Bracket for MOLLE System

I happened to stumble up on this great design by Peak Design.  The Capture Camera Clip allows you to mount any camera on any strap.  The optional mount accessories, like the POV Kit,  also lets you adjust angles of the mounted camera.  I love this simple design

POV Kit by Peak Design

Only two things kept me from getting one.  One, it is on back order.  Two, I am cheap and I think I can make a cheaper one.  By cheaper, I mean both financially and quality.

I recently got this cool backpack that uses the MOLLE (Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment) System.  I may write more about my Triple Aught Design FAST Pack Litespeed backpack.  This is a military grade pack, there are a bunch of straps for you to mount addition pouches using the MOLLE System.  For now, here is a photo for your reference.

FAST Pack Litespeed by Triple Aught Design

The MOLLE System is also incorporated into the shoulder straps.  Here is a chance to design a simple mounting bracket that will work for both the vertical shoulder straps and horizontal straps throughout the rest of the pack.  So, I came up with this design.

Rough sketches of mounting bracket

My design is loosely based on Peak Design's bracket.  I just have two simple plates with a square footprint.  The slotted plate slides into the MOLLE straps.

Simple bracket for MOLLE Sytem

The upper plate just screws on to the slotted plate.  On the slotted plate, there is a 'bar' that keeps the plate from shifting when slid into the MOLLE straps.  A GoPro mount is stuck on using double sided tape.

Slotted plate slid between the verticals shoulder straps

Mounting the plates is simple.  Just slide the slotted plate in between the straps.  Place top plate, secure with four screws.  The plate were laser cut from a 0.100" styrene.  Not the strongest, but you get what you pay for...this cost me nothing.  The holes on the bottom plate (slotted) was tapped using a 10-32 tap.  Holes on the top plate are slightly larger so the plates can be 'pulled' together.

Plate screwed together

Once the four screws are in place, the bracket is secure.  I chose screws that I can hand tighten, no need for tools.

GoPro camera mounted on bracket

With the backpack on, and the curve of my manly chest, the plate points outward about 10 degrees.  Unfortunately, the angle of the camera is not adjustable for left and right, only up and down movement.  Again, you get what you pay for.

Bracket can me mounted on horizontal MOLLE straps

My design also allows the bracket to be mounted anywhere around the backpack.  The mounted object can be vertical or horizontal, depending on the direction one mounts the top plate.  While there is no need to mount the camera on back of the backpack, unless I happen to want a rear view camera, the bracket will work with any MOLLE system, such as a vest.  The bracket can be used for other purposes other than for a camera.  So, it just adds to the MOLLE system.  I may just have a few more sets cut out for future use.  Maybe I can mount lights or make an MP3 holder with my bracket.

There maybe something like this out there, right how.  I am too lazy to research that.  Perhaps someone will see this post, or me with the bracket, and steal improve upon my design and bring something like this to market.