|Engine Cover Support Slide Block|
|Stock sliding block|
|Removal of Engine Cover Stay Assembly|
This is a good time, or perhaps a little late, to remember to get some sort of stick to keep the engine cover up. Once the assembly is out, there will be nothing keeping the engine cover from slamming onto your head.
|Removal of sliding block|
|Delrin slide block (top) vs stock slide block (bottom)|
Installing the new block requires a little more coordination. The new bolts and nuts are 8mm, instead of 7mm. So, getting the larger bolt into the smaller hole takes a little encouragement. Also, the slot in the holes and the slot in the block is a snug fit. I had to 'screw in' the bolt to get it in place, as it did not just slide in. Again, slowly cranking the bolt with a wrench.
The nut and bolt towards the rear of the car is easier. The one towards the front is a pain in the neck....literally. When torquing that bolt, the support rod gets just gets in the way. The only way to really do it is to rest the engine cover on my head so the rod is out of the way. Only then, could I get the wrench in place to turn the nut and bolt. You need two hands to torque the bolt and locking nut. I am sure there is a better way to do this, having a partner help would put less pressure on your head and neck.
|New sliding block installed|
Besides the awkward assembling technique involved, the design of supporting a heavy metal lid at the fulcrum is not the best. Normal cars would have a support rod and/or some sort of spring or strut to help hold the cover up. As mentioned before, if you get the DMC Louvre Brace, that has a hook that hooks the striker bar on the engine cover and takes the pressure off the engine cover stay assembly.