06 January 2014

Trailing Arm Shield Bracket Kit

I have been driving without my Air Deflector Plates for almost two years.  One day I decided to finally install my plates.  The plates were clean and ready to go, the car was jacked up...then, the typical DeLorean issues arise...as soon as you tackle one project another problem shows up.  The bolts that hold the plate were rusted out and basically useless.

What to do?  There is a replacement part available at most DeLorean vendors.  The Deflector Retaining Strips (#K111230) are stainless and a better design than original, more on that later.  These are about $26 a pair, plus shipping/tax.  I was in no hurry to get these.  One day, while surfing on eBay, I found a pair of these for $25, shipped.  They were basically new, still in the bag.  The seller bought these and had them for over ten years and never installed them. 

The kit I got was from P.J. Grady, Inc.  He calls these Trailing Arm Shield Brackets (#110811G), while everyone else calls these Deflector Retaining Strips.

Installation is simple, very simple.  The hardest part of this project is getting to the existing bolts.  This means taking out the battery...which means I will need to reset my clock and radio stations.

Batter compartment with Retainer Screws
There are six original Retainer Screws (Big Head Stud M6 #SP10250), three on each side.  They are held in place with silicone (or similar).  These popped right out easily with a pry of a screwdriver.

Rusted out screws
Screws underneath the battery were most likely rusted out because of the battery.   At least on previous owner may have had a leaky battery with would explain the condition of the screws.

Original screws versus the new brackets
The new design features a three stainless steel bolts, welded to a stainless steel bar.

Bracket fits perfectly
The design locks the bolts in place, they will not rotate as you tighten the bolts.  Original three screw set up can loosen up, especially if the three decade old silicone starts to deteriorate. 

Silicone for waterproofing
Speaking of silicone, it is recommended to squirt a little around the base to seal out any moister.  A little piping of silicone, like decorating a cake, around the base of each screw will do the trick.  There is an option to use pop rivets, note the holes in the plate, to secure it to the fiberglass body.  This will require drilling and a pop rivet gun.  I elected not to do this, mainly due to laziness, and I did not want to drill in to the fiberglass.

Driver's side bracket installed
Instead of the pop rivets, I just screwed in the nuts holding the bracket in place, so the silicone can cure.  Then, I will be ready to install my Air Deflector Plates.

Bonus Round:  I was going to install the Air Deflector Plates, but I just got a set of Trailing Arm Bolts.  These are new bolts made of Inconel, similar to the world famous 'Toby TABs', from DeLorean Parts Northwest.  In the last few months, there have been a few pairs sold on eBay.  One pair went for over $900.  These are a hot item.

My new TABs are from DMC-Midwest, Dave Swingle had a bunch made.  At a mere $130, shipped, I picked up a pair.  Yeah, Swingle TABs!

So, the Air Deflector Plates will wait until I get the new Trailing Arm Bolts replaced/installed.  That should give the silicone plenty of time to cure.

One more thing:  Happy Birthday, John.

1 comment:

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