22 December 2015

Time For A New Engine

Earlier this year, I had an issue with block corrosion due to neglect by previous owners.  If coolant is not regularly flushed, it starts eating away at the block. As the current owner, I get to deal with these issues.  Yay!

When we last left off, our hero recovered from its injuries.  The block had some leaks on the driver's side. Yeah, I said 'some'...as in more than one...leaks.  These were patched and eventually the car was working fine.  I was told to keep an eye on the situation, check for leaks.  Well, guess what I found

One day I noticed a pool of green, on the passenger side, this time.  I followed the trail of green apple Jolly Rancher up and found the source.  It was at the oil filter.  At first, I thought coolant was leaking from the seal. This lead to many theories, including coolant leaking into the oil and out the seal of the oil filter.  I even checked the oil make sure it was not contaminated with coolant.  Well, good news.  Oil is clean.  More 'good' news, I located exactly where the leak was coming from.

Hole in engine block
At the 1 O'clock position where the oil filter meets the block, you can see a nice little green hole. It is a relative small hole, about 3-4mm. 

Another view
Hard to get lighting and a camera up there, but here is another view of the coolant eating a small hole.  After cleaning the area the surface tension of the coolant was just enough to slow down the coolant from flowing out.  With the car not running, there is no pressure built.  Yet, after a few days I did notice that there was still coolant leaking from the hole. 

Tiny hole, huge problems
I sent these images to DMC-California and based on my medical history, the diagnosis is I need transplant.  New engine.  With the new engine comes upgrades, as DMC no longer installs stock engines.  I will be getting a Stage II upgrade which gives me a few more horsepower, I am kinda excited for that.

In the meantime, I did a quick patch job on the hole. Something to keep it from leaking, especially under pressure,  and hopefully reinforce the area...at least for the drive down to the shop.

Ghetto patch job
Since I will be getting a new block, whatever I do to it does not matter.  So, I decided to patch the hole.  As it was hard to get lighting and a camera up in there, it was harder to get access to patch the hole.  The car was jacked up with the rear wheel removed.  Still, it was difficult to reach above, behind, and around the oil filter.  Once the area was cleaned, I mixed some JB Weld and globbed it around the hole the best I can.

After a few days, it seems to be holding, no noticeable leaks.  I let the JB Weld sit for a few days to let it cure.  Then, I ran the engine for a few minutes to test out the patch under pressure.  Granted, I did not push the engine or let it run too hot, but it held.  Hopefully, this should get me to the shop with no issues. 

Trivia:  Six years ago, today, was the first time I saw the car.  A month later, I would purchase the car of my dreams.  Sure, some the dreams have been nightmares, but you cannot have the yin without the yang.  Here is hoping that the new engine does not cause me to wake up in the middle of the night in a cold sweat.  Stay tuned.

14 December 2015


End of the year edition.  Do telemarketers ramp up employment as retailers do with seasonal jobs?   While everyone is bring joy at this time of year, these fucknuts terrorize year round.

14 December 2015
  501-760-7395  Little Rock, AK - I am not even sure if this is a telemarketer.  Did a little search and did not come up as one...but, I could be the first.  Holy shit, I am patient zero.  No message, so it could be a wrong number.  Yeah, I highly doubt that.  Fuck you!

   310-849-3549  Beverly Hills, CA - Oh, this one checks out as a telemarketer.  I guess that answers my question about seasonal jobs at the telemarketer office.  Fuck you!

15 December 2015
    931-307-7329 - Mother fucker!  Another goddamn text. 
Douche bags
 Bags?  Yeah, more like douche bags...you fucking cunts! Fuck you, fuck you, fuck you!

22 December 2015
   330-883-4531   Warren, OH - A call at 8:20 in the morning?  What the fuck?  My boss does not even call me that early in the morning.  I did a quick search, and according to others, this is a credit scam telemarketer.  Of course, we have the holidays...lots of shopping...perfect time to run this scam. So, fuck you in the ass with a Christmas tree.

25 November 2015

My Visit to Bremont Boutique - Royal Exchange

Royal Exchange in London
On our recent holiday, we landed in London.  It just happens that two Bremont Boutiques are located in London.  Naturally, along with the touristy sites, I wanted to visit the Bremont Boutiques.  First up, Royal Exchange.

Entrance to Royal Exchange
For those unfamiliar with this part of the city, it is the luxury business district.  As you can tell, I was way under dressed for the area.  Damn tourist.  We were greeted at the door by a door man.  Once you are inside, the plaza is surrounded by boutiques like Omega, Bulgari, and Tiffany & Co.  

Bremont at Royal Exchange

Bremont from South Entrance of Royal Exchange
If you walk in from the front (West Entrance) of the building, the Bremont Boutique is located in the middle on the right.  It is a small store, about the size of a one car garage.

Bremont Chronometers and 'the seat'
I spent some time with Paul Gray as we talked about the brand and I just geeked out over all the watches, accessories, and memorabilia. 

Martin Baker ejection seat
I wanted to purchase something, perhaps a key chain or strap, while it was at Bremont. I had some questions on whether the Seattle strap.  At one point, the website stated that the strap would not with with the deployment clasp.  Paul fitted the strap to my watch and explained that it worked, but because of the stiffness of the material, it does not curve to the wrist as easily as leather or rubber.

Paul Gray, General Manager at Bremont Boutique
I was amazed at the speed and ease of how Paul worked that watch tool to swap straps.  As we we talked he recommended that I purchase the strap from the New York Boutique as it would be cheaper.  So, I did not get the strap...yet.

Of course I have to get a photo with Martin Baker
We spent about a half hour in there.  Before we left he gave me a Bremont ball cap, newsletter, magazines, and a wealth of knowledge about the brand.  Thanks, Paul!

My Bremont in front of Bremont
If you are a fan of Bremont and happen to be in London, I recommend a visit to the Bremont Boutique, City of London, at Royal Exchange.

Thick business cards
12 The Courtyard, Royal Exchange
London,  EC3V 3LQ
+44 (0) 207 220 7134

For more information visit Bremont.com

24 November 2015


When it gets to this time of the month, I get kinda excited.  Are we able to make it a telemarketer-free month?  It is rare, and has happened, usually during holiday.  Ah, but not this time.

24 November 2015
   949-440-1374  Irvine, CA - Just in time for Thanksgiving.  This year, I am thankful for Caller ID, as it allows me to ignore these fucking telemarketers.  I wonder if telemarketers work on Thanksgiving...not like they have family or friends.  I guess we will find out in a few days.  Anyway, fuck you, like a turkey getting stuffed.

22 November 2015

Bremont Loot

Prizes from Alt1tude Forum
Remember that Halloween Competition I entered?  Well, I won!  Here are the prizes.
  • Bremont keychain with knurled orange barrel as seen on the Martin Baker range of watches.
  • Bremont polo shirt with embroidered logo on chest and sleeve
  • Bremont newsletter
During my visit to Bremont, I almost purchased one of these keychains and even asked about shirts.  They did not have any shirts and I did not get the keychain.  More on my visit later.  I guess it was a good thing I did not get those items then.  Winning free stuff is better than buying that same stuff.

Again, I would like to thank jwalker9 and everyone at Alt1tude for putting together the event. Special thanks to Mike Pearson and Bremont for providing the prizes for the competition. 

05 November 2015

Depeche Mode is English Heritage

English Heritage logo
I was recently in England and visited Stonehenge, the rock formations made famous (at least to me) by English band Spinal Tap, with their hit song Stonehenge

Spinal Tap performing Stonehenge with dancing Druids
I saw signs for English Heritage around the 'lobby' and gift shop area.  English Heritage is a registered charity organization that looks over the National Heritage Collection, founded in 1983.  From their site: 
English Heritage cares for over 400 historic buildings, monuments and sites - from world-famous prehistoric sites to grand medieval castles, from Roman forts on the edges of the empire to a Cold War bunker. Through these, we bring the story of England to life for over 10 million people each year. We are a charity, no. 1140351, and a company, no. 07447221, registered in England.
While I have been to England a few times before, I had never noticed this agency before.  What really caught my eye was the logo.  It reminded me of this:

Depeche Mode - Sounds of the Universe
Take a look at Depeche Mode's 2009 album cover for Sounds of the Universe.  What?  Yeah, that is what I thought. 

Sounds of the Universe is Stonehenge
Check out the overhead hot of Stonehenge.  I mean, you have a circle and it looks like it could be rubble...fallen stones.  Heck, they pretty much lines up perfectly.  Sounds of the universe...stars...astronomy...the sun...sunset...winter and summer solstice...English band...English country side.  I think we have something here.  We would have to ask Anton Corbijn or someone from Depeche Mode to confirm.  But it seems to me that Sounds of the Universe is Stonehenge!  No!  I mean, yeah...it could be. 

What I am getting at is this.  Take a closer look at the DM logo.

Sounds of the Universe are DM logo designed by Anton Corbijn
What?  I know!  It looks a lot like the English Heritage logo.  Yes, this totally means that Depeche Mode is indeed English Heritage.

01 November 2015

I Am the New Face of Bremont

Okay, I am not the face of Bremont.  But, there is (or was, depending on when you read this) a competition on the ALT1TUDE forum to post a Halloween themed Bremont photo.  There are cool prizes for the winner, so it will be worth it to enter.

The things I do to try to win a contest
 My idea was to 'become the face of Bremont'.  Simply put, I will paint my face to look like the face of a Bremont ALT1-C.  Ha ha, face...get it?  I rushed to the 99 Cent to pick up some face paint, hoping that there will be some supplies in stock.  Looking for Halloween supplies on Halloween, I am sure there are plenty of supplies.  Luckily, there were a few packs of cheap 99 cents face paint left, enough to do what I need to do.  Here is the process:

Mixing face paint and colour matching
For 99 cents, you get some cheap stuff and not a lot of options as far as colour.  I wanted to match the anthracite of my watch, so I had to mix the paint to get a grey.

Applying the base colour
Once the colour was mixed, I dabbed it on with a makeup sponge.

Painting the whites
You cannot get last-minute-99-cent makeup in silver.  I used a thin coat white over the grey (that way it mutes the white) to represent the silver parts of the watch.

Lettering backwards
This was the fun part, painting the words.  Using my watch as reference, I had to reverse the image in my head first, then paint it using a mirror.

Adding the logo
Trying to match font is hard, especially with a crappy brush.  I did my best.  Note that I have the older version of the watch with the original logo and Swiss Made on the dial.  So, 'Swiss Made' is on my chin, instead of 'London'.

Painting numbers
Painting the numbers on the side of my face was tricky, as it was harder to see out of the corners of my eyes, versus looking straight into the mirror. Oh, and there is that reversing issue, too.

Smaller details in black
Once done with the white paint, the cheap brush is cleaned and on to black paint for the numbers on the sub-dial and date.  I had to go back and paint some markers along the circumference of the dial.  Final touch is the red on the chronograph second hand.

This project took me about two hours.  I think it turned out okay...definitely an improvement to my regular face.  Hoping to win something in the competition.

05 October 2015

Tool Pen Mini - Kickstarter

Tool Pen Mini - Precision Bits
Last year, I backed the Tool Pen by mininch.  Earlier this year, the gang at mininch launched another Kickstarter campaign for their Tool Pen Mini.  Their new campaign was equally successful, generating over $350,000 for their $15,000 goal.

Familiar packaging
As with the original, the compact design makes this tool easy to carry and ready to use.  The Mini uses the same 'Pop-A-Point' system to cycle through the bits.  There are five bits in the chamber.

Inside the box, with extra bit carrying case
Included in the kit I ordered was an additional sixteen bits.  This was the 'most complete kit' for this Kickstarter campaign.  The bits include:

  •  Slotted Bits: SL1.5, SL2, SL2.5, SL3
  •  Phillips Bits: PH00, PH0, PH1
  •  Hexagon Bits: H0.9, H1.3, H1.5, H2 
  •  Torx Bits: T6, T7
  •  Torx Security Bits: TR8, TR9, TR10
  •  Square Bits: S1
  •  SIM Eject Tool: 0.8
  •  Pentalobe Bits: P2, P5, P6

Tool Pen Mini and bits
Like the larger Tool Pen, the cap of the Mini is magnetic.  They made one improvement to the cap, as it fits on the end of the pen, making it hard to lose.  There is also a clip on the cap, making it even harder to lose.

Size of original and mini bits
Note that the Tool Pen Mini and Minibits are not compatible with the original Tool Pen and its bits.  

Want one of these or the original Tool Pen?  Missed out on the Kickstarter campaign?  Well, you can order the original Tool Pen from the mininch website.  The Tool Pen Mini should be available soon.

01 October 2015


First day of October and we are off to a great start.

1 October 2015
  310-849-7226  Beverly Hills, CA - I got a call from this number last month.  Again, this could be a legit wrong number.  But, why would you call the same 'wrong number',again?  Why not leave a message just in case.  Until proven otherwise, this is a telemarketer.  Fuck you!

  646-893-5423 - New York - These fuckers from New York tried to call me yesterday, too.  To that, I say, fuck you.

7 October 2015
  310-849-1035  Beverly Hills, CA - A quick search on this number and no flags were raised.  Perhaps no one has reported on it, yet.  Same area code and prefix as the other Beverly Hills number.  So, I am consider this another telemarketer call.  Fuck you!

29 October 2015
   323-609-6016  Los Angeles, CA - I bet you are thinking, "hey, 22 days between calls is not bad".  Well, normally, yes.  But, I have been on holiday for the last three weeks.  The kind of holiday where you turn off your phone.  I just turned on the phone this morning and bam, I get a call...as if they know when I came back.  Oh this gets better.  They is a return caller.  Fuck you!

15 September 2015

Fixing That Nike FuelBand - Alternate Versions

In January 2014, I posted about fixing the Nike FuelBand.  The repair lasted until the FuelBand itself failed on me.  I have since got a new band. Again, the silicone on and around the button started to wear.  Since I have used up my Sugru, I went for the alternative:  electrical tape.

Electrical tape fix
Sugru or other mouldable glues may not be easily or immediately available in your area. Electrical tape is one alternate fix with an everyday item that you may already have or can get at a local hardware store.  Simply wrap the tape twice around the button area.  You may need to trim the tape to a narrower width, otherwise you will get wrinkles in the tape as it is wrapped.  Most electrical tape comes in 17mm width, I trimmed mine down to about 13mm.

The only down side to using electrical tape is the residue from the adhesive.  Occasionally, you will get black marks on your wrist.  You could use other colours of electrical tape, but I have found any tape will leave residue.  Because of the properties of silicone, pretty much nothing sticks to it, the tape tends to shift or rotate, and cause the adhesive to separate from the tape and end up on your wrist or possibly clothing.

Adhesive residue from electrical tape
If you elect to use this method, it is a good idea to remove the tape once in a while and re-tape it.  Make sure to clean the residue to avoid bubbles.

I have been experimenting with the electrical tape method for a few months.  It works, but I have another alternate way to fix this issue with FuelBands.  Heat shrink tubing

Heat shrink tubing
Yes, heat shrink tubing.  This idea came to me as I was using some to fix the aglets (or "fluglebinder" for you are a Tom Cruise and Cocktails fan) on my one of my skate laces.  The only hurdle is finding some tubing large enough to fit the band.  You should be able to locate some at your local hardware store or electronics store.  The tubing is also available in a variety of colours.

As you know, the circumference around the clasp area is slightly larger than the body of the band.  I was able to find a piece that was about 22mm wide when flatten (see photo above).  This is the perfect size, as it barely fits around the ends.  With a little encouragement, you can get it past the wider part of the band.

Cut tubing to length
You will need to cut a piece long enough to cover the button and the area around it, about 15mm.  This gives about 3-4mm overlap on all sided of the button.  Remember, it shrinks.  You could leave a smaller overlap (13mm) as a 3-4mm overlap covers the first row of lights on the band.  This 'loss' of one row of lights noticeable when displaying longer words like "START", "HOURS", battery level, etc.  Not that big of a deal since most of the display images does not utilize the row of light closest to the button.

I have my band set to default/left hand wear, I do not see, nor miss, the first red light.  It might be an issue for those who have it set to right hand wear, as you will not see your final green light.  If that is the case, go with a shorter tube with less overlap, or just think ahead (unlike me) and not cover those lights.

Heat shrink tubing over FuelBand button
Once you work the tubing past the ends, slide it over the button, making sure it is centered.  This is a good time to double check that the area is clean of debris before heating.

Be careful when heating up the tubing.  Make sure you keep your heat source moving and check that the FuelBand is not too hot.  Better yet, have a stationary heat source and keep the FuelBand in motion to get those NikeFuel Points.

I used a heat gun, again, keeping it constantly moving until the tubing was tight on the band.  I am not sure what the temperature limits of the band and interior electronics are so just be careful.  Do I need to state that you should do this at your own risk?  Well, there, I said it.  And, be careful not to burn yourself.

The finished product looks and works better than anything I have tried, so far. There are advantages to using heat shrink tubing versus electrical tape or a mouldable glue. There is no need to sculpt and maintain a constant thickness as you would with a mouldable glue and there is little risk of it chipping off.  The tubing does not have any adhesive, therefore, no residue to worry about and not need to reapply as often.

I have been wearing this for about two weeks and it is holding up strong.  Good luck!

Update:  Answering questions in comments.

1 - Heat shrink tubing was the best solution to the broken button.  Tape and Sugru methods I have used in the past do not last as long.  Having said that, heat shrink tubing does has its limits.  You will need to replace the tubing every few months, depending on your activity and button usage. 

2 - If the silicone cover is still intact, leave it there and slip tubing over the button as is.  If the silicone cover as torn off, you will need to clean the area.  Make sure the tiny metal disc is contacting the sensor.  Read this post on how to fix a torn button issue. 

Nike has abandoned support for the FuelBand, so no more updates or ability to acquire new bands.  If you still want to track your daily movements, I recommend getting something (like Fitbit) with support.

My Nike FuelBand crapped out on me about a year ago.  Nothing to do with my button fix...it just stopped working and I had to do a complete reset and lost data since last sync.  I have since received a Fitbit and have been using that. 

04 September 2015

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - September 2015

If you have a phone, you are going to get telemarketing calls.  Well, I have a phone and guess what...I got  some calls.  Sometimes it is human, most of the time it is a robot.  Occasionally, the caller ID shows weird numbers.  What am I talking about?  Keep reading...or just read my past rants on telemarketers.

4 September 2015
   991-4  Unknown - What the fuck is this?  Like I mentioned, sometimes I will get some weird caller ID numbers.  Just what the fuck is 991-4?  Very close to 911, as if emergency dispatch is going to me and ask for assistance.  What the hell am I going to do?  Oh, fuck you!

   991-4  Unknown - What, two calls on the same day?  Well, this must be important.  Look, I have a deadline that I am working on.  I do not have time to deal with your telemarketing scam.  I do, however, have plenty of time to write about this here.  I mean, what the fuck kind of number is 991-4?  I will tell you. They some how hide/route their number so you cannot track it.  Oh, and good luck trying to call them back with that number.  Fuck you!

   UNKNOWN - Really?  I just got done typing the above and this fucking terrorist calls.  Fuck you!

So far, three calls today.
   991-4  Unknown - Make that four calls, three from this number.  Fuck you in the ass with a telephone pole!

9 September 2015
   310-849-7226 Beverly Hills, CA - This may be just a wrong number, or it could be a telemarketer in disguise.  Who knows?  I did a quick search and nothing came up.  Better be on the safe side and report this as enemy fire until we can confirm target.  Fuck you!

10 September 2015
   728-727-9654 Mexico - I had to look this one up, since there was no location on the caller ID.  Yeah, you read correctly...the 728 area code is apparently from Mexico.  Who the fuck is calling me from Mexico?  Anyway, the search also tells me that this some sort of credit card scam. So, fuck you!

14 September 2015
  213-669-9133  Los Angeles Area - Shit!  Looks like the telemarketers are picking up this month.  We had a pretty calm August.  Fucking telemarketers, literally nothing better to do...even though it is their job to harass the fine citizens of this community.  Fuck you!

Scam ad for bootleg products
17 September 2015
   heminshebangeer@hotmail.com - Another one of those fucking text messages.  This one was via iMessage, so I should be free to me...but, still.  Fuck that shit.  Clogging my inbox with shit advertisements with bootleg products.  Yeah, I doubt these fuckers are legit.  I mean what kind of name is 'heminshebangeer'?  Fuck you!

25 September 2015
   323-609-6016  Los Angeles, CA  - Did you get your new iPhone 6s/6s Plus?  Well, if you did...you may have received a call from this fucknut.  God damn it, I fucking hate telemarketers. Fuck you, fuck you, fuck you!

30 September 2015
  646-893-5423 - New York - It is funny how everyone in New York thinks they are the shit...kinda like how everyone in Los Angeles thinks.. Well, fuck the both of you.

19 August 2015


Sometimes there is a long gap between telemarketer calls. It had been about nineteen days since the last call. Wow, that is almost three weeks.

19 August 2015
  949-535-4256  Irvine, CA - I almost answered this since I know some people in the Irvine area.  Then, I thought to myself, "that person would never call", and "their name would show up if it was a legit call".  I like that there is caller ID on phones, now.  

Hey, remember back in the day when your phone rang and you immediately picked up.  You know, not because you were desperate, but because if someone called, you knew it had to be important.  Not any more.  These days a phone call means nothing. I mean, this a typical conversation on a phone:

You:  Yo, what up?
Them:  Nuthin'.
You:  A'ight then, peace.
Them:  Word.

This is why the youngens text now.  They do not even want to use the phone. Back in the day, when there were cords on the phone.  You had long conversations, like this post.  You were locked in chained to the telephone. You were not going anywhere, might as well talk it out.  

Ah, the best thing about those phones is you could slam the receiver down and really make guy's ear ring.  The best 'fuck you', via phone. 

18 August 2015

New Head Lamps for the DeLorean

I have changed every light bulb in the DeLorean, except for the headlights.  Well, lucky me, one of my head lamps went out.  This forces me to change them out.  While almost all the lights in the car have been switched to LED, I am keeping the head lamps as regular incandescent bulbs.  I have yet to do the research on LED head lamps and I am in a need to replace them now.

I recently had the right side lamp replaced while the car was in the shop.  The shop only replaced the one, but the internet says that you should replace in pairs.  The thought is, if one goes out, the other will eventually go.  Theory proven, as two months after one lamp was replaced, the other went out.

About to install Sylvania H4656 headlights
The replacement lamp is easily available at your local auto retailer or online.  According to the good folks in the DeLorean community, Sylvania H4656 is the 'modern' replacement.

 Accessing the lamp for removal and replacement is a little bit of a challenge.  They make it look easy in the workshop manual.  Yeah, I looked up how to remove and replace....just in case...refer to section M:11:01.  I realise that we are talking about changing a light bulb, here.  But, depending on your fascias, it could take more time that you think.

Removal of Gap Finishing Plate
First, the removal of the Gap Finishing Plate (101601/101602).   Again, this seemed like an easy task.  Remove the screw and the plate comes out.  Oh, no.  The plates, at least mine, were trapped in the fascia.  To unhook the plate, lift plate so it is horizontal and slide plate towards center of vehicle.  Then you can work the plate away from the fascia.  I know more complicated that is should be, and we have only just begun.

Removing the bezel presents new challenges.  For reference, the images below will focus on the right side of the vehicle.

Inside screw location
There are four screws that hold the bezel in place.  The inside screw (towards the center of the vehicle) is the easy one to get to. Enjoy this moment while you can, the next ones will drive you screwy.

Outside screw location
The outside screw is tucked in the corner of the fascia.  This one takes some effort to get to.  But, still relatively easy.  Careful not to scratch the fascia.

There are two more screws which are hidden underneath the fascia.

Inner hidden screw location
One screw is located about a third of the width in.  To get to it, you will have to pull up on the fascia  and get the head of the screwdriver in there.  Good idea to have a magnetic tip screwdriver or a magnet to retrieve the screw.

Outer hidden screw location
The last screw is about a third in from the outer edge of the Bezel (100643).  This is way up in the corner of the fascia.  Again, pulling up on the lip of the fascia to gain access to this.  This one is tough to get to, be careful.

Bezel.  Better look at screw locations
Once you get the bezel off, it is as simple as unplugging the old lamp and plugging in your new lamp.  Make sure to check the lamps and see if they light up.  You do not want to go through this process again any time soon. Remember that magnet I talked about.  It can come in very handy in helping you place the screw into the appropriate holes.  You could slip and drop the screw into the fascia.  Ask me how I know that...and I did it twice.  

But, this is a good thing.  I installed the bezel using three of the four screws.  I left the outer most corner unscrewed.  I did not want to pull up on the fascia any more than I had already.

Wedging a screwdriver in between the fascia an bezel
I now have a new theory on what causes DeLorean Eyebrows.

Some say that it is the heat from the high beam lamp causes the top of the fascia to warp.  I believe this is half true.  Yes, the more you use the high beam the more heat it will cause.  But...and here is my theory...the more use of the high beam, the more chance if the lamp burning out. This will lead to removal and replacing the lamp.  Well, you will have to pull on the fascia to access those hidden screws.  And that, my friend, is the cause of the infamous DeLorean Eyebrows.  *drops mic...audio feedback*

Then again, I could be totally wrong.

The infamous DeLorean Eyebrow (I stole this image from the internet)
In conclusion, I believe the best way to service the head lamps is to remove the fascia and replace all four with LED.  While you have the fascia removed, it might be a good idea to reinforce the eyebrow area.

Total time for project was about thirty minutes.  That means you can do this in fifteen.  One less thing to worry about until the next issue arises.