22 December 2016

Keyport Slide 3.0 - Kickstarter

Keyport Pivot and Slide 3.0
I have had the Keyport Slide 2.0 since 2013.  In January of this year, the folks at Keyport introduced a Kickstarter campaign for their new Slide 3.0, along with a newly designed Pivot.

Keyport Slide 3.0

So far, I am/was very happy with the Slide 2.0.  Although, there were issues with the construction...mainly material choice...the plastic used could shatter if dropped.  Ask me how I know that one.  The aluminum construction of the Slide 3.0 (will hopefully) solve this minor issue.   You can see one of the chips on my 2.0 in the image below.  Besides, I am not a fan of the pivot system, not just Keyport's Pivot, pivot design systems in general.

The design of the 3.0 is similar to the 2.0.  There are slight changes due the change from plastic to metal.  For one, the 3.0 weighs a little more.  Well, of course it does, it is metal.  I like the added weight.

Slide 3.0 and Slide 2.0
The end cap is a much improved design.  It has a spring loaded latch.  On the 2.0, the end cap is sort of pressed in and locks in with tabs.  Well, if you happen to drop your Keyport 2.0...one of these tabs can break of...then you will have to look for your chassis, end cap, and the little piece of tab.  The fun part is finding a way to re-attach or repair the broken tab.  I tried superglue, solvents, welding the plastic tab back, and hot glue.  They all work for a while, but as soon as you need to remove the end cap for any reason (see photo above), you risk breaking the tab off again.  Oh, and if you happen to drop it again, you could get lucky and just have a chip somewhere....or you could snap the tab off again.  So, you can see how excited I was when a new - metal - version was being released.  Heck, at one point I thought about getting a new Slide 2.0 chassis, but luckily the Kickstarter campaign started.

One 'feature' that 2.0 users will miss when switching to the 3.0 is the little nub on one side of the Keyport chassis.  I use this everyday to feel which distinguish which side is which, especially in the dark.

Slide 2.0 nub vs smooth Slide 3.0
Above image shows nub (circled) that has been very helpful.  I may stick a little nipple on the 3.0 so I will know which side is 'up'.

Since I already had blades and inserts from the 2.0, when I got the new 3.0, I just transferred them over.  I even reused by buttons.  But, there was one insert that did not fit.  The LED light insert is too wide to fit.  I also had the problem of low battery life.

Keyport LED insert
If you have the LED insert and need to change the battery and/or want to fit it in your Slide 3.0, this next section may help.  Be careful and do this at your own risk...there is my disclaimer.

Hoverboard
Tanget:  The LED insert kinda looks like a hoverboard.  And, why is it when I look up "hoverboard" on Google, I get those 'hands-free Segways'.  When I search "hoverboard", I should be bombarded by images from the Back to the Future trilogy, damn it!

Trim line
Since the insert is a little wide, you need to trim one side of the circuit board.  The dotted line above shows where you need to trim to, about 1.5mm.

Be careful to not go too deep. The red arrow shows the line where 'wire' that connects the battery to the switch.  Try not to cut this line.  If you do, that is okay.  You should be able to re-route the wire back to the switch.

Sanding to the line
On my LED insert, there was enough room to sand down and not hit the wire.  Note the holes on the circuit board, you can use these to 'rewire' if you happen to trim too much.

Now, battery removal.  The batteries are spot welded on to the contacts.  This is so the insert can slide in and out easily without catching on the walls of the chassis.  I do not have, or know if there is, an un-spot welder.  So, a solution is the drill out the spot weld.
Spot weld locations
There are eight spot welds.  Luckily, they have a slight dip, like a shallow pilot hole, so the drill bit you use should not travel as easily.  Better to have access to a drill press, but drilling by hand will work.

Battery drilling
As with all tools be careful.  After all, you are drilling into to a battery.  Take it slow.  Once you pass through the spot weld, the contact should pop up, no need to drill any deeper.  I would assume that heat from the drill on the battery is not the best combo.  Speaking of heat on a battery, spot welding a battery sounds stupid dangerous.

Drilled contacts
Once you have drilled through the contacts, the battery will pretty much fall out.  Just need to find the correct replacement.  The batteries that came with the insert were 3V CR1025, I used 1.55V 395.  I will be getting half the voltage of a brand new LED insert, but I was getting close to nothing on my factory batteries.  Good news is, I can switch out batteries anytime.

Tape down contacts to battery
Not only do I not have an un-spot welder, I also do not have a spot welder to weld the contacts back on to the batteries.  But, I have tape.  Find some thin tape, cut it to size and make sure the contacts are contacting the batteries and tape everything down.  Make sure there is tape on the sides...remember it was to wide to fit in the 3.0 slots?...well why would you add more thickness to it?

Slide insert into chassis

With both one edge trimmed to fit, new batteries replaced and taped, you can now slide in the insert into the chassis as you did on the 2.0.

Lights on!
It works!

After doing this, I realized the new design has an option for LED side plate.  It looks like there is an easier way to change batteries.


New LED side plate design

If you want one of these yourself, you can order from Keyport.


04 December 2016

BlazeCut - Automatic Fire Suppression System

You could say that have a car that is famous for catching on fire.  Why, there is even an incident at a local mall, one early October morning in 1985, where a DeLorean left flames in its track as it headed towards a crazed scientist and a teen-aged boy.  Of course, there are rumours that a dog was driving.

But besides that, there have been a handful of reports the past few years of DeLoreans engulfed in flames.  This is mainly due to old, cracking rubber fuel lines in the engine bay.  A few years ago, I had my fuel lines replaced with stainless steel lines.  Most recently, I got a new engine.  While everything is new and should run smooth, I figure it would be best to protect my investment.

Enter the BlazeCut Automatic Fire Suppression System.  The unit is a plastic tube filled with a extinguishing agent.  The system automatically triggers when excessive heat is detected.  Basically, the flames melt the plastic tube and the extinguishing agent is released.

BlazeCut Automatic Fire Suppression System
After seeing some videos of this thing in action, and reading about how many cars have been lost to fire, I purchased a set for my car.

What you get in the box
The system comes with the main unit, some zip ties, and a sticker.  The unit I got is the TV200FA, with 500g of HFC-236fa, tube length of 212 cm.

Installation is relatively simple.  I used the vents as anchor points to zip tie the tube to my engine cover.  The difficult part is fighting the curve of the tube.  It might have been smarter to undo the coiled tube and let it rest for a day or two before installation.

BlazeCut installed on engine cover
 I thought about mounting the tube along the inside of the engine bay.  Well, struggling with the coiled tube was hard enough.  Plus engine bay mounting would require installation of brackets to the walls.  It may also get in the way of the engine if and when maintenance needs to be performed.  The engine cover seems to be the better option for now.  Although, I might shift the 'C' opening towards the front of the car.
View from top, closed engine cover
Some say the vents on the engine cover may let the extinguishing agent escape.  I agree with those that say having this system gives you more time to get to a safe location in the event of a fire.

I hope this is the last time I have to write about fire and engine. 

01 December 2016

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - December 2016

Home stretch, last month of the year.  I feel that there will be a last minute push to meet their numbers

1 December 2016
  505-207-1361  Albuquerque, NM - I believe this is the first call from Albuquerque.  For me, Albuquerque is famous for two things.  1. Bugs Bunny should have made a left turn at Albuquerque.  2. The Sprinfield Isotopes almost moved to Albuquerque.  Yeah, they are both cartoon references...which kinda tells you what kind of a person I am.  So with that, fuck you!

5 December 2016
  850-513-3524  Tallahassee, FL - Believe it or not, this is the first call from Tallahassee.  I would have sworn that there have been some calls before.  There was a time then I was constantly receiving calls from Florida.  At least now, we can chick Tallahassee off the list.  Fuck you!

 10 December 2016
  323-336-6017  Los Angeles, CA - Well hello, robo-telemarketer...and a good Saturday morning to you, too.  No, not in the morning and not on a Saturday.  Fuck you!

  847-24 - Usually, we do not know who is texting from these numbers.  But, with this one, we do. Remember that 650-727-1364 number from San Mateo?  You know, fucking Door Dash and that cunt,  Lori. Well, I blocked that number, so they found another way to harass me by using this 874-24 bullshit.

650-727-1364 mirror
While I am no expert on telemarketers, I am a frequent victim (as we all are) and this is straight up telemarketing.   Fuck you!

20 December 2016
  310-849-8375  United States -  If you do a search for this number, it comes up as a legit number.  But, since the location is "United States", this is a telemarketers.  While it possible that this was a call to a wrong number, the odds are, based on the caller location, that this was a routed call from a telemarketer.  They have been routing calls through 'real' numbers for years.  Fuck you!

27 November 2016

Bruce Lee on Guitar

Bruce Lee DJ
A few years ago I saw this image of Bruce Lee at a turntable.  Being a, shall we say, 'someone who has a slight interest in anything Bruce Lee related', I knew this was photoshopped.  Here is the original image.

Original, non-DJ, image
The 'original' image was known as "Bruce Be Blazin".  In recent years, this images has been photoshopped with Bruce Lee smoking a joint, hence 'blazin', along with other variations.

Bruce Lee Gung Fu Scratch

The most popular shopped image is the Disc Jockey themed one.  There are a few versions of the DJ Bruce.  One was made into a shirt by designer Peter Lee.

Bruce Lee Gung Fu Scratch shirt
I happened to receive a shirt, known as Bruce Lee Gung Fu Scratch, like this from my cousin.  You can get them at Bow & Arrow '78, or at Official Bruce Lee Store.  Yeah, I noticed that the image of Bruce Lee is flipped.

Around the same time, I got another Bruce Lee shirt from another cousin (other cousin's brother). As you can see, I am pretty easy to shop for.  Just get me anything Bruce Lee related.

The shirt is by BAIT and you can order yours and other Bruce Lee items, here.

Bruce Lee shirt by BAIT

To my surprise, I did not recall seeing this image of Bruce Lee, before.  Obviously, the image is from Enter the Dragon, I wanted to find this unique image.  I searched for this 'Bruce Lee rage' image (on and off) for months.  Why the obsession?

I had an idea...a moment if you will...you could say that I had a #BruceLeeMoment.

Inspired by the DJ image, I wanted to take this 'new' image of Bruce and make it look like he was jamming on a guitar.  Look at it. It looks like the poster for the Air Guitar World Championships.

Months later, I stumbled on the original image.  To my surprised the BAIT shirt image was also flipped.  Is there something about flipping Bruce Lee's image when printed on a shirt?

Bruce Lee rage
This works out fine, as I think Bruce Lee would play the guitar right handed as Brandon Lee did as Eric Draven in The Crow.  Anyway, let the photoshopping begin.

Brandon Lee as Eric Draven
Unfortunately, this is a low-res image of Bruce Lee, but it is the only image that I have been able to find.  Long story short, I looked for some images of guitars and this is the result:

Bruce on Guitar
So, if you see this image of 'Bruce shredding a guitar' out there (like on a shirt), you now know the origin of it.

...and of course, I have to put DJ Bruce back there, too.  Maybe I can find other images of Bruce Lee on and photoshop him playing the drums, keyboards, singing...I could have a Bruce Lee band!

Jam session

12 November 2016

Design Concepts for Bremont

It is no secret that I love Bremont watches.  I recently acquired my second Bremont, no doubt a third one will come along.

The other day, some watch design ideas popped into my head.  Bremont began in 2002, so 2017 will be the Fifteenth Anniversary of the brand.  What better way to celebrate than with some new, possibly Limited Edition, designs.

I did some photoshop mock-ups to see if it can work.  I have watermarked my images in case someone 'borrows' them and others may mistaken them for real concepts.  I have no affiliation with Bremont...but, Bremont is free to use these as 'inspiration' for their range of watches.

Here are three quick concepts:

Tachymetre concept
Tachymetre

I also have other watches in my collection, one happens to be an Omega Speedmaster.  One of the features I like about the Speedmaster (and other watches) is the Tachymetre on the bezel.  

Bremont has the Chronograph function on many of their watches since the beginning.  But none have had a Tachymetre.  Honestly, I think very few people use this function, but I like the look of it.  

I used the ALT1-ZT as a base and added the inner rotating bezel of the ALT1-WT.  Colours were changed to add a little flare.  Then, I added the Tachymetre (stolen from a Speedmaster) to the bezel. 

Propeller second hand
Propeller Second Hand

The Bremont logo has a propeller under the word mark.  The propeller is also seen on the crown of most of the Bremont collection.  If you have seen any of their videos, the into shows the propeller rotating to reveal the Bremont logo.

So, I took the propeller and made it the second hand.  One problem...well, two problems.  First, it spans the across the entire dial.  My solution to this is to add markings to one tip similar to markings on real propellers.

The second issue, looking at the propeller orientation, they are turning anti-clockwise.  As you know watches and clocks turn clockwise (unless you have a Goofy watch).  I simply flipped the propeller to allow for clockwise rotation.

In the concept above, I took a SOLO and applied the propeller second hand to it.

And yes, I did try to make the hour and minute hands as propellers, but it simply does not work.  There are two major problems.  The first, the hands are different lengths and off-balanced propeller wings just do not work.  The other issue is, the hands are only opposite of each other eleven times around the face.  Example:  12:32, 2:43, 4:54...etc.


Propeller second hand at 9H
Propeller Second Hand on 9H Subdial

One of the coolest things Bremont has done was to use the small second hand, at the subdials, as a propeller.  This can be seen on some of their Limited Edition pieces such as the EP120 and P-51, using each aircraft's respected propeller design as a second hand.  These pieces also have their propeller designs integrated into rotor, which can be seen through the display caseback.  This treatment can also be seen on some exclusive military edition pieces.

I thought that would be interesting to see with the Bremont logo propeller.  Here I took their latest Limited Edition, the DH-88, and modified the second hand at the 9H position.

That is it for now.  Perhaps more ideas in the future.  It would be pretty neat if Bremont took inspiration from some of my ideas and implemented them into their line.

Nick and Giles, something to think about for your Fifteenth Anniversary.

Update (15 Nov 16):  I shared my concepts with the Alt1tude forum and some suggested a moon phase watch.  Slow day at work...here you go.

Moon Phase Concept
I used another SOLO as a base and 'acquired' the moon phase additions from a Jaeger-LeCoultre.  I moved the Day and Month indicator to the 'traditional' 10H and 2H positions.  The date ring just fit perfectly in the inner bezel.

Putting the moon phase subdial at 6H meant I had to adjust the "Automatic Chronometer" to fit inside.  The "London", normally on the inner bezel or under the 6H marker.  I had to modify the 6H marker so the subdial would fit,  since there was already text in the subdial, I moved "London" to 'bridge' the gap between the day and month indicators, just under the Bremont logo.

05 November 2016

How To Get That Fuel Flap Look

DeLorean fuel flap
It has been said that "only the best DeLoreans have fuel flap hoods."  Okay, I said that...and my DeLorean is by far from being the best.  It is pretty well known that I am a fan of the fuel flap.  It was part of the original design, but eventually removed for a variety of reasons including cost and spite.

So, you have one of those regular hoods but you want that fuel flap look.  Sure, you can do it for real and cut into your hood.  This has been done, but as you can guess, it is a lot of work...and you get one shot at it.  If you want a cheap version, I can help.

You will need to get some graphic tape that is about 3/8 inch (about 10mm) wide.  These can be found in most art supply stores. Make sure the finish on it is matte, and not gloss.  You will also need a ruler or measuring tape.

Things you will need
Since I have a fuel flap, I will demonstrate on the other side of the hood.  I am also using a thinner tape, but you get the idea.

Hood measurements
I took these hood measurements a few years ago at the request of a forum member.  These will come in handy in laying out the fuel flap outline.  Or, if you want to make your own hood.

From the outside edge, measure 11.75 inches in and run your tape parallel down. Remember, I am doing this on the opposite side, and I am too lazy to mirror my images before posting.

First edge
Use your grain lines to help guide you, they should be parallel.  I did this quick and dirty, but it might be a good idea with mark with a pencil before laying the tape down.

First turn
It is important to pull the tape taut when laying it down.  The tricky parts are the corners.  Again, you want tension on the tape as you curve it around.  If you have an iPhone, use that as the radius of your corners.  Make sure your line is perpendicular, this line should be 7.125 from the top.

Second turn
The second turn is 5 inches from the first corner.  Just follow your grain lines and you are done.  The inside edge should be 6.675 in length.

Ha!  I have two fuel flaps.
An alternate way, if you have access to a vinyl cutter, is to make this shape and have it cut.  Again, use a matte finish vinyl.  The width of the line should be about 3/8 inch wide.  Use the measurements I have provided to make your vinyl decal, just leave extra to wrap the ends around the top edges.

Wow, looks great.  You now have a fuel flap hood, you have joined the elite of DeLorean owners.

I hope by now, you know I am joking...except for the part about fuel flaps being the on the best of DeLoreans.  Taping a flap line on your hood only looks good from far away and in low-res pictures.  Although, the stickers will add a few horsepower to your car.

Next time, I will show how to make your regular car doors look like they are gull-winged doors...you will need 1/4 inch tape and a ruler.


03 November 2016

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - November 2016

The Cubs win the World Series, breaking a 108 year old curse.  One curse that is still unbroken is the curse of the telemarketer.  I wonder if there were any telemarketers in 1908.

3 November 2016
  323-347-6202  Los Angeles, CA - I was waiting for this call.  Usually, it takes a few days into the new month before I get a call from a telemarketer.  Well, wait no more.  Perhaps they will slow down a little once the election is over.  We will see.  Until then, fuck you!

4 November 2016
  650-727-1364 San Mateo, CA - This is not the first time I got texts from this number.  My first encounter was earlier this year in February.  Then again, in a month later.


650-727-1364
The internet thing says this is a legitimate business, but Lori really needs to get her shit together and provide them with the correct number to text.  Fuck you, Lori!

9 November 2016
  216-254-2717  Cleveland, OH - New number, nothing shows up on a search.  I am still filing this under a telemarketer call.  I guess I could have picked up to be sure, fuck that...and fuck you!

11 November 2016
  866-654-6394 - What the fuck is this, 866 is one of those 'toll free' numbers.  So obvious that this a telemarketer number, fuck you!

  650-727-1364 - San Mateo, CA - Another text from DoorDash.  I even wrote back and tried to tell them they had a wrong number.

650-727-1364
Their automated system will not respond, so looks like will be getting these in the future.  I might try using the support area of their site, but you have to send them feedback via email.  Well, you know what that means...they will have my email address, and I will be receiving junk mail from them.  Fuck you!

15 November 2016
  9wd82zam@srnkm.com - What the shit is this?  Yep, another texting scam.  I think the telemarketers are pissed that I am not picking up their calls, so they are texting me instead.

#BlackFridaysMatter
Oh look, a "Report Junk" button.  If only I could report junk on Door Dash and fucking Lori.  Not sure what good it would do if it was reported.  Here is what will happen, all communication from 9wd82zam@srnkm.com will be blocked...but what if they are smart enough to create an account under 9wd82zam1@srnkm.com?  I will tell you what.  Fuck you, that is what.

17 November 2016
  802-661-0076  Barre, VT - Been a while since I had a call from Vermont, four and ha half years for those keeping track, February of 2012.  They called, and immediately ended the call.  I like that they hang up before I get a chance to answer...not like I was going to answer.  Fuck you!

20 November 2016
  number withheld  FaceTimeVideo -  So this call came in and disconnected before I picked up the phone to check who was calling.  Note that I did not post the number and here is the reason why.  I looked up the number and it came up as a 'safe' number.

The number was also registered to someone who shares a name with someone from my past.  You know, one of those Facebook friends that you never talk to.  Well, this person never had, and should not have my number, as I got this number long after the last time we communicated outside of Facebook.

The caller's number was from an out of state area code.  I am not sure if this friend has lived in this other state long enough to get a local number.  I know the current whereabouts of this friend (thanks, Facebook) and as far as I know they have always resided with in the same area.

Maybe I should contact this person and see if they tried to call me.  For now, I will not post the number...so a search would not lead one here.  I mean, that is how you found this place, right?  You searched one of these numbers and now you are reading this.  But, that number may appear in a photo below, just in case.

I will let this one slide as spooky coincidence.

22 November 2016
  714-340-4513  Yorba Linda, CA - Ah,now this one has been confirmed by others as a telemarketer and not a stalker from the past.  Fuck you!

  310-849-9619  United States - At first, I thought this was a legit number. I even did a search for it, and nothing turned up.  But, then I realized that the call originated from "United States".  Oh, we know what that means.  Fuck you!

  310-849-3380  United States - Well, if the first number does not work...try another one.  Third call today, second from the same relative area (based on area code and prefix).  Fuck you, too!

Calls for 22 November 2016 and other recent calls.
26 November 2016
   ey2gefzaqe5avvqo@zb6py.bid - Yep, another fucking text spam from someone that created their account by having their cat walk on their keyboard.

Scam Oulets
Yeah, looks as legit as your fake ass email address.   Seriously, what have I been doing, whod have I been calling/texting that leads these cocksuckers to think that I am interested in UGG boots and Michael Kors accessories.

I clicked on Report Junk, as I did before, and nothing will happen.  The last 'cat walk account' text I got was for Black Friday.   This is for Cyber Monday.  I fully expect to get one next month for some sort of Christmas clearance for some fucking UGG boots.  Fuck you!

31 October 2016

Bremont Candy

The Alt1tude Forum is having their fourth annual Halloween competition.  I entered last year and won some cool stuff.  This year, there is more cool stuff, including another key ring and a wooden display.  I know I am not going to top what I did last year, but I will enter anyway.

Bremont crowns
This year, my theme is based on the Bremont crown. Like most watch companies, the crown of each (okay, most) Bremont has their logo on it, the propeller.  For some Bremont ranges that have a Roto-Click™ bezel, there is a Royal Air Force roundel on the crown.

Bremont T-Bar Cufflinks
These crown details are also seen in Bremont's accessories like key fobs and cufflinks.

So, my idea is to paint these little logos on to chocolate confectioneries that are coated in a hard candy shell...basically, M&M's.  By the way, this is also the 75th Anniversary of M&M's (introduced in 1941).

M&M's, paint, brushes
Contrary to popular belief, I do not have a surplus of M&M's, so I needed to do some shopping.  Luckily, this happens to be a Halloween competition...and they have Halloween themed M&M's, of course they do.  This is perfect as they are Fall/Halloween colours.  I even bought a plastic plate to tie everything together.

And yes, I do have paint supplies, so no need to acquire those.

Painting M&M's
When people ask me, "what did you do this weekend".  I answer with, "I painted logos on M&M's"

Helps to have a steady hand
I spent about ninety minutes painting logos.  Only six roundels and about twenty propellers were painted for the photo.

M&M's and ALT1-C
Here are the final compositions for the competition.  Above with my ALT1-C and painted M&M's 'pouring' out of the bag.

Bremont pouch
I thought it might look interesting to have the M&M's pour out of the Bremont pouch from the key fob I won last year.

Oh, so artsy.
Maybe someday, Bremont will release a line of 'Tested Beyond Endurance' confections and desserts.