Tool Pen Mini - Kickstarter

Tool Pen Mini - Precision Bits

Last year, I backed the Tool Pen by mininch.  Earlier this year, the gang at mininch launched another Kickstarter campaign for their Tool Pen Mini.  Their new campaign was equally successful, generating over $350,000 for their $15,000 goal.

Familiar packaging

As with the original, the compact design makes this tool easy to carry and ready to use.  The Mini uses the same 'Pop-A-Point' system to cycle through the bits.  There are five bits in the chamber.

Inside the box, with extra bit carrying case

Included in the kit I ordered was an additional sixteen bits.  This was the 'most complete kit' for this Kickstarter campaign.  The bits include:

•  Slotted Bits: SL1.5, SL2, SL2.5, SL3
•  Phillips Bits: PH00, PH0, PH1
•  Hexagon Bits: H0.9, H1.3, H1.5, H2 
•  Torx Bits: T6, T7
•  Torx Security Bits: TR8, TR9, TR10
•  Square Bits: S1
•  SIM Eject Tool: 0.8
•  Pentalobe Bits: P2, P5, P6

Tool Pen Mini and bits

Like the larger Tool Pen, the cap of the Mini is magnetic.  They made one improvement to the cap, as it fits on the end of the pen, making it hard to lose.  There is also a clip on the cap, making it even harder to lose.

Size of original and mini bits

Note that the Tool Pen Mini and Minibits are not compatible with the original Tool Pen and its bits.  

Want one of these or the original Tool Pen?  Missed out on the Kickstarter campaign?  Well, you can order the original Tool Pen from the mininch website.  The Tool Pen Mini should be available soon.

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - October 2015

First day of October and we are off to a great start.

1 October 2015
  310-849-7226  Beverly Hills, CA - I got a call from this number last month.  Again, this could be a legit wrong number.  But, why would you call the same 'wrong number',again?  Why not leave a message just in case.  Until proven otherwise, this is a telemarketer.  Fuck you!

  646-893-5423 - New York - These fuckers from New York tried to call me yesterday, too.  To that, I say, fuck you.

7 October 2015
  310-849-1035  Beverly Hills, CA - A quick search on this number and no flags were raised.  Perhaps no one has reported on it, yet.  Same area code and prefix as the other Beverly Hills number.  So, I am consider this another telemarketer call.  Fuck you!

29 October 2015
   323-609-6016  Los Angeles, CA - I bet you are thinking, "hey, 22 days between calls is not bad".  Well, normally, yes.  But, I have been on holiday for the last three weeks.  The kind of holiday where you turn off your phone.  I just turned on the phone this morning and bam, I get a call...as if they know when I came back.  Oh this gets better.  They is a return caller.  Fuck you!

Fixing That Nike FuelBand - Alternate Versions

In January 2014, I posted about fixing the Nike FuelBand.  The repair lasted until the FuelBand itself failed on me.  I have since got a new band. Again, the silicone on and around the button started to wear.  Since I have used up my Sugru, I went for the alternative:  electrical tape.

Electrical tape fix

Sugru or other mouldable glues may not be easily or immediately available in your area. Electrical tape is one alternate fix with an everyday item that you may already have or can get at a local hardware store.  Simply wrap the tape twice around the button area.  You may need to trim the tape to a narrower width, otherwise you will get wrinkles in the tape as it is wrapped.  Most electrical tape comes in 17mm width, I trimmed mine down to about 13mm.

The only down side to using electrical tape is the residue from the adhesive.  Occasionally, you will get black marks on your wrist.  You could use other colours of electrical tape, but I have found any tape will leave residue.  Because of the properties of silicone, pretty much nothing sticks to it, the tape tends to shift or rotate, and cause the adhesive to separate from the tape and end up on your wrist or possibly clothing.

Adhesive residue from electrical tape

If you elect to use this method, it is a good idea to remove the tape once in a while and re-tape it.  Make sure to clean the residue to avoid bubbles.

I have been experimenting with the electrical tape method for a few months.  It works, but I have another alternate way to fix this issue with FuelBands.  Heat shrink tubing

Heat shrink tubing

Yes, heat shrink tubing.  This idea came to me as I was using some to fix the aglets (or "fluglebinder" for you are a Tom Cruise and Cocktails fan) on my one of my skate laces.  The only hurdle is finding some tubing large enough to fit the band.  You should be able to locate some at your local hardware store or electronics store.  The tubing is also available in a variety of colours.

As you know, the circumference around the clasp area is slightly larger than the body of the band.  I was able to find a piece that was about 22mm wide when flatten (see photo above).  This is the perfect size, as it barely fits around the ends.  With a little encouragement, you can get it past the wider part of the band.

Cut tubing to length

You will need to cut a piece long enough to cover the button and the area around it, about 15mm.  This gives about 3-4mm overlap on all sided of the button.  Remember, it shrinks.  You could leave a smaller overlap (13mm) as a 3-4mm overlap covers the first row of lights on the band.  This 'loss' of one row of lights noticeable when displaying longer words like "START", "HOURS", battery level, etc.  Not that big of a deal since most of the display images does not utilize the row of light closest to the button.

I have my band set to default/left hand wear, I do not see, nor miss, the first red light.  It might be an issue for those who have it set to right hand wear, as you will not see your final green light.  If that is the case, go with a shorter tube with less overlap, or just think ahead (unlike me) and not cover those lights.

Heat shrink tubing over FuelBand button

Once you work the tubing past the ends, slide it over the button, making sure it is centered.  This is a good time to double check that the area is clean of debris before heating.

Be careful when heating up the tubing.  Make sure you keep your heat source moving and check that the FuelBand is not too hot.  Better yet, have a stationary heat source and keep the FuelBand in motion to get those NikeFuel Points.

I used a heat gun, again, keeping it constantly moving until the tubing was tight on the band.  I am not sure what the temperature limits of the band and interior electronics are so just be careful.  Do I need to state that you should do this at your own risk?  Well, there, I said it.  And, be careful not to burn yourself.

The finished product looks and works better than anything I have tried, so far. There are advantages to using heat shrink tubing versus electrical tape or a mouldable glue. There is no need to sculpt and maintain a constant thickness as you would with a mouldable glue and there is little risk of it chipping off.  The tubing does not have any adhesive, therefore, no residue to worry about and not need to reapply as often.

I have been wearing this for about two weeks and it is holding up strong.  Good luck!

Update:  Answering questions in comments.

1 - Heat shrink tubing was the best solution to the broken button.  Tape and Sugru methods I have used in the past do not last as long.  Having said that, heat shrink tubing does has its limits.  You will need to replace the tubing every few months, depending on your activity and button usage. 

2 - If the silicone cover is still intact, leave it there and slip tubing over the button as is.  If the silicone cover as torn off, you will need to clean the area.  Make sure the tiny metal disc is contacting the sensor.  Read this post on how to fix a torn button issue. 


Nike has abandoned support for the FuelBand, so no more updates or ability to acquire new bands.  If you still want to track your daily movements, I recommend getting something (like Fitbit) with support.

My Nike FuelBand crapped out on me about a year ago.  Nothing to do with my button fix...it just stopped working and I had to do a complete reset and lost data since last sync.  I have since received a Fitbit and have been using that. 

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - September 2015

If you have a phone, you are going to get telemarketing calls.  Well, I have a phone and guess what...I got  some calls.  Sometimes it is human, most of the time it is a robot.  Occasionally, the caller ID shows weird numbers.  What am I talking about?  Keep reading...or just read my past rants on telemarketers.

4 September 2015

   991-4  Unknown - What the fuck is this?  Like I mentioned, sometimes I will get some weird caller ID numbers.  Just what the fuck is 991-4?  Very close to 911, as if emergency dispatch is going to me and ask for assistance.  What the hell am I going to do?  Oh, fuck you!

   991-4  Unknown - What, two calls on the same day?  Well, this must be important.  Look, I have a deadline that I am working on.  I do not have time to deal with your telemarketing scam.  I do, however, have plenty of time to write about this here.  I mean, what the fuck kind of number is 991-4?  I will tell you. They some how hide/route their number so you cannot track it.  Oh, and good luck trying to call them back with that number.  Fuck you!

   UNKNOWN - Really?  I just got done typing the above and this fucking terrorist calls.  Fuck you!

So far, three calls today.

   991-4  Unknown - Make that four calls, three from this number.  Fuck you in the ass with a telephone pole!

9 September 2015
   310-849-7226 Beverly Hills, CA - This may be just a wrong number, or it could be a telemarketer in disguise.  Who knows?  I did a quick search and nothing came up.  Better be on the safe side and report this as enemy fire until we can confirm target.  Fuck you!

10 September 2015
   728-727-9654 Mexico - I had to look this one up, since there was no location on the caller ID.  Yeah, you read correctly...the 728 area code is apparently from Mexico.  Who the fuck is calling me from Mexico?  Anyway, the search also tells me that this some sort of credit card scam. So, fuck you!

14 September 2015
  213-669-9133  Los Angeles Area - Shit!  Looks like the telemarketers are picking up this month.  We had a pretty calm August.  Fucking telemarketers, literally nothing better to do...even though it is their job to harass the fine citizens of this community.  Fuck you!

Scam ad for bootleg products

17 September 2015
   heminshebangeer@hotmail.com - Another one of those fucking text messages.  This one was via iMessage, so I should be free to me...but, still.  Fuck that shit.  Clogging my inbox with shit advertisements with bootleg products.  Yeah, I doubt these fuckers are legit.  I mean what kind of name is 'heminshebangeer'?  Fuck you!



25 September 2015
   323-609-6016  Los Angeles, CA  - Did you get your new iPhone 6s/6s Plus?  Well, if you did...you may have received a call from this fucknut.  God damn it, I fucking hate telemarketers. Fuck you, fuck you, fuck you!

30 September 2015
  646-893-5423 - New York - It is funny how everyone in New York thinks they are the shit...kinda like how everyone in Los Angeles thinks.. Well, fuck the both of you.
 

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - August 2015

Sometimes there is a long gap between telemarketer calls. It had been about nineteen days since the last call. Wow, that is almost three weeks.

19 August 2015

  949-535-4256  Irvine, CA - I almost answered this since I know some people in the Irvine area.  Then, I thought to myself, "that person would never call", and "their name would show up if it was a legit call".  I like that there is caller ID on phones, now.  

Hey, remember back in the day when your phone rang and you immediately picked up.  You know, not because you were desperate, but because if someone called, you knew it had to be important.  Not any more.  These days a phone call means nothing. I mean, this a typical conversation on a phone:

You:  Yo, what up?

Them:  Nuthin'.

You:  A'ight then, peace.

Them:  Word.

This is why the youngens text now.  They do not even want to use the phone. Back in the day, when there were cords on the phone.  You had long conversations, like this post.  You were locked in chained to the telephone. You were not going anywhere, might as well talk it out.  

Ah, the best thing about those phones is you could slam the receiver down and really make guy's ear ring.  The best 'fuck you', via phone. 

New Head Lamps for the DeLorean

I have changed every light bulb in the DeLorean, except for the headlights.  Well, lucky me, one of my head lamps went out.  This forces me to change them out.  While almost all the lights in the car have been switched to LED, I am keeping the head lamps as regular incandescent bulbs.  I have yet to do the research on LED head lamps and I am in a need to replace them now.

I recently had the right side lamp replaced while the car was in the shop.  The shop only replaced the one, but the internet says that you should replace in pairs.  The thought is, if one goes out, the other will eventually go.  Theory proven, as two months after one lamp was replaced, the other went out.

About to install Sylvania H4656 headlights

The replacement lamp is easily available at your local auto retailer or online.  According to the good folks in the DeLorean community, Sylvania H4656 is the 'modern' replacement.

 Accessing the lamp for removal and replacement is a little bit of a challenge.  They make it look easy in the workshop manual.  Yeah, I looked up how to remove and replace....just in case...refer to section M:11:01.  I realise that we are talking about changing a light bulb, here.  But, depending on your fascias, it could take more time that you think.

Removal of Gap Finishing Plate

First, the removal of the Gap Finishing Plate (101601/101602).   Again, this seemed like an easy task.  Remove the screw and the plate comes out.  Oh, no.  The plates, at least mine, were trapped in the fascia.  To unhook the plate, lift plate so it is horizontal and slide plate towards center of vehicle.  Then you can work the plate away from the fascia.  I know more complicated that is should be, and we have only just begun.

Removing the bezel presents new challenges.  For reference, the images below will focus on the right side of the vehicle.

Inside screw location

There are four screws that hold the bezel in place.  The inside screw (towards the center of the vehicle) is the easy one to get to. Enjoy this moment while you can, the next ones will drive you screwy.

Outside screw location

The outside screw is tucked in the corner of the fascia.  This one takes some effort to get to.  But, still relatively easy.  Careful not to scratch the fascia.

There are two more screws which are hidden underneath the fascia.

Inner hidden screw location

One screw is located about a third of the width in.  To get to it, you will have to pull up on the fascia  and get the head of the screwdriver in there.  Good idea to have a magnetic tip screwdriver or a magnet to retrieve the screw.

Outer hidden screw location

The last screw is about a third in from the outer edge of the Bezel (100643).  This is way up in the corner of the fascia.  Again, pulling up on the lip of the fascia to gain access to this.  This one is tough to get to, be careful.

Bezel.  Better look at screw locations

Once you get the bezel off, it is as simple as unplugging the old lamp and plugging in your new lamp.  Make sure to check the lamps and see if they light up.  You do not want to go through this process again any time soon. Remember that magnet I talked about.  It can come in very handy in helping you place the screw into the appropriate holes.  You could slip and drop the screw into the fascia.  Ask me how I know that...and I did it twice.  

But, this is a good thing.  I installed the bezel using three of the four screws.  I left the outer most corner unscrewed.  I did not want to pull up on the fascia any more than I had already.

Wedging a screwdriver in between the fascia an bezel

I now have a new theory on what causes DeLorean Eyebrows.

Some say that it is the heat from the high beam lamp causes the top of the fascia to warp.  I believe this is half true.  Yes, the more you use the high beam the more heat it will cause.  But...and here is my theory...the more use of the high beam, the more chance if the lamp burning out. This will lead to removal and replacing the lamp.  Well, you will have to pull on the fascia to access those hidden screws.  And that, my friend, is the cause of the infamous DeLorean Eyebrows.  *drops mic...audio feedback*

Then again, I could be totally wrong.

The infamous DeLorean Eyebrow (I stole this image from the internet)

In conclusion, I believe the best way to service the head lamps is to remove the fascia and replace all four with LED.  While you have the fascia removed, it might be a good idea to reinforce the eyebrow area.

Total time for project was about thirty minutes.  That means you can do this in fifteen.  One less thing to worry about until the next issue arises.

My Bremont ALT1-C Anthrachite

My Bremont ALT1-C in front of DMC-CA

I have mentioned that I have a liking to Bremont watches, I even made a 3D model of one.  After months of research, I was able to acquire an ALT1-C.    About a month ago, I found one on eBay and pulled the trigger.  The watch was previously owned, but in great condition...a few minor scratches, nothing I would not eventually put there myself, as I have a history of running into things with my wrist.  The watch was recently serviced by Bremont and had a new bezel.  Basically, it was a 'new' watch.  Lucky for me, the auction was to close on a holiday weekend.  This meant, in theory, that others looking at the auction were too busy partying and not paying attention to the auction.  You snooze, you lose...more like...you party, you no get watchy for less than half price of retaily.

Watch with strap options

While the watch itself was in great condition, the strap that it came with was only in 'good' condition.  It came with a standard black leather strap with white stitching on a traditional buckle closure.  Strap can be seen in upper left in image above

I should note that this is an older model with 'old logo' and 'Swiss Made' on the dial.  Newer Bremont's have an updated logo and "London" on the dial.  Anyway, I wanted the deployant clasp for my watch.  It just happened that one was being sold by a member of  the ALT1TUDE Bremont forum.  He also had a new strap, black leather with red stitching, and gave me a good deal on both.  See image.

On the right side of the image is Bremont's NATO strap.  I got this from another member of ALT1TUDE. Now, I have options for every occasion.  Well, I do not have the metal bracelet, yet.

Remember that 3D model I made?  Here are some images for comparison.

Comparing 3D model to real thing

Nothing wrong with your monitor, the 3D model is slightly bigger.  For some reason it came out bigger than what I thought I measured. My model and/or print out came out about 2% larger.  Better that the real watch is smaller than I thought.  That way, when I wear my Bremont, it does not make my wrist look too small.  No worries, I can always adjust some number and print out another, more accurate, version.  You know...for research.

Back of 3D mode and ALT1-C

If you look closely at the lugs, you can see that the 3D model on the left is a little bulkier that it should be.  On the right the lugs are way more sexier.  The movement and rotor look pretty good, but the one on the right keeps better time. 

Analyzing the NATO straps

As you recall, I made a NATO strap from a convention lanyard.  I did not have great photos of this strap, but made my best guess.  As far as construction, I pretty much got it.  I do not have the velvet like lining for the back of watch (between the spring bars) and back of strap, due to lack of reference. 

Stunt double

Of course, the quality of the materials and construction of my band is no where near the quality of the Bremont strap.  My strap is also a little longer that it should be.  When it sits on my wrist, it is too loose.  The Bremont strap fits perfect.

There you have it, my first Bremont.

Bremont ALT1-C Anthracite

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - July 2015

Happy Canada Day!  First of the month, signings and trades are happening around the NHL.  Players, Agents, and General Managers are getting phone calls from across North America.

1 July 2015
   323-306-4417 Los Angeles, CA - Well shit, I got a call.  Have I been traded to a different team?  Nope, it is a fucking telemarketer.  A quick Google search tells me that a call from this number is an IRS scammer, a computerized voice claiming to be an IRS officer, and that there is a pending lawsuit. Selling shit is one thing, but I am pretty sure there are additional laws against impersonating a government official.  I hope the IRS tracks down these fucking telemarketers and shuts them down.  Fuck you!

3 July 2015
   567-242-5595  Lima, OH - Oh, this is good.  Another robot leaving a message similar, if not the same, as the number above.  Something about 'fraud' and needing to 'take care of it before it goes to Federal Claims Courthouse"...or it could lead to 'arrest'.  And I am supposed to call a number immediately.  Do you really think if I call on this day, 3 July...the day before a National Holiday, that I can sort this out with a government agency?  You cannot get shit done with the government on a regular day, come on.  Oh, the number, I looked that up. too.

The number 312-940-6951 also registers as a scam/fraud.  Mostly about IRS and tax scams.  Same as the other numbers earlier.  What the fuck is this?  Happy Birthday, America...we declared independence from England's taxes in order to get scammed by robots.  Shove this firecracker up your ass and fuck off! 

8 July 2015
   213-674-4949  Los Angeles, CA - Holy shit!  This is another robot claiming to be from the IRS and/or Department of Treasury, regarding 'tax fraud' and 'prison'.  You know the routine by now.  That is three calls this months regarding the same thing.  Although, one would think that they would just call from one number, and use an actual person to communicate these claims.  I hope you go to prison for impersonating a government agent and whilst there, you get gently fucked in the ass.

  323-621-5286  Los Angeles, CA - Two calls in one day.  Have not had that happen in a while.  Did a little Google search, and this is just a garden variety telemarketer call.  There was no real message left.  I should mention that the above 'messages' are really just the robot going through the motions and the recorder just picked up the last few seconds of their pitch...I mean, scam.  This one, tried to 'leave a message' but was cut off, so all I heard was a fragments digital voice.  So, fuck you!

31 July 2015
   310-695-1719  Los Angeles, CA - This one is strange.  I did a Google search and this number was auto-filled.  Looks like they have called before.  But, when I did a search on here, I could no find any record of this.  My guess is, I received a call from this number, looked it up...but upon listening to the message they left, figured it was a wrong number and ignored it.  I even looked through my phone records and was unable to find the previous time a call was received.  Recent search results show that this is now a telemarketer number.  So, just to be safe...fuck you!

Well, I guess the good news is, I am no longer a fugitive of the IRS.

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - June 2015

Over a month since the last call...but not a harassment free month of June.  So close.

Unknown...oh so mysterious.

23 June 2015
   Unknown - What, 'unknown'?  These are the ones that are questionable.  But, since no message was left, I am classifying this as a telemarketer call.  Sure, it could be a wrong number, but why hide your number like a terrorist hides in a cave?  Fuck off!

   Unknown - Hmm...another call from 'unknown'.  Perhaps someone is trying to reach me.  Oh wait, there was no message left.  So, fuck you!

25 June 2015
   269-224-9028  MI, USA - Who could this be?  Of course, it is yet another telemarketer.  Even better, this is apparently one of those automated ones.  I guess most telemarketer calls are automated...kinda like drones.  Holy shit, this is Cyberdyne Systems...Skynet is real. 

Nike Kobe IX Elite "What the Kobe" - The Code

Nike Kobe IX Elite "What the Kobe"

I saw these late last year and I wanted these mainly because they look like Nike Air MAG's.  Okay, they look a little like the MAG's...could we at least agree that the logo on the side look similar?

At $250, I hesitated on purchasing these.  Current prices are in the $300-$350 range, and up.  But a pair recently came up on eBay at a reasonable price (below original price), it was new and unworn with no box.  Yeah, I bought a pair.

New shoes for me

Upon receiving the shoes, I did a quick inspection to make sure everything was legit.  Like a great movie, there are many little details that you will notice the more times you look at it. I like reflective material. I bought a Nike Wind Runner jacket, as featured at the 2012 London Olympic Games, because the whole damn thing is reflective.  This Nike Kobe IX Elite has reflective Swoosh logos and tongue logo.  It also has reflective strands in the laces.  Note that the shoe is mainly white with orange and green accents.  Well, the aglets...or 'flugelbinder', if you are familiar with Cocktails...match, with one being green, the other orange.  Yes, I just wanted to say 'flugelbinder'.

Eric Avar's sketch of the Nike Kobe IX

One thing I noticed was there is a series of dots, almost like Braille, but not, on the missole of the shoe.  Now, I am not familiar with the Kobe line of shoes.  But apparently Kobe Bryant and the Nike designers like to put coded messages on the Kobe line of shoes.

I did a little research and found that for the Kobe IX, designer Eric Avar continued this trend with a coded message.  Here is quote about the code which I found on the Nike site.

Nike Designer Eric Avar and Kobe Bryant

KOBE INSIGHT #9: KEEP PEOPLE GUESSING.Eric Avar: “Let’s include the Kobe code.”
Performance result: Small details matter, both in basketball and design. The Kobe code is featured on each shoe, both on the lateral (outside) and medial (inside) sides of the midsole. Code on lateral side translates to: ‘Masterpiece.’ Code on medial side translates to ‘Veni, vidi, vici,’ an inspirational Latin phrase that translates to “I came, I saw, I conquered.”

Code translates to "MASTERPIECE"

The system of dots on a three-by-three grid is 'on or off'.  With nine positions, this on/off variation can give us two to the ninth power, or 512 combinations.  More than enough for letters and numbers.

I tried to 'de-code' the code, to see if there was an actual alphabet and, noticed that there is an error in the code.

Code is supposed to translate to "VENI, VIDI, VICI"

If you look at the symbols above, the first letter of each word is a "V".  It looks like dots arranged in an arrow, pointing towards the upper right.  The last letter of each word is "I", this looks like an arrow pointing towards the lower right.

Now, look at the "E", second letter in first word.  This matches the three E's in "MASTERPIECE".  All the dots are on except for position 3, the upper right is off.

Here is where the error is.  If you look a the second word, it should be 'VIDI'.  But based on the alphabet already established, it actually reads, "VEDI".  Note the 'E' where it should be an 'I'.  I even looked up "veni, vedi, vici" and Google corrected me.

Did you mean: veni VIDI vici

Well, there is an entry in the Urban Dictionary, but you cannot trust the public with spelling, especially with spelling a foreign word.  The site credits 'VEDI" with the Marlboro Man.  If there was ever a reason not to smoke, this is it.

I can see the ease of making this error.  You have a well known Latin phrase that needed to be written in modern English. Some say it was already written in the modern English as it is based on the Latin alphabet.  Anyway, they had to apply it to their special code.  So, someone forgot to do a little fact checking and spellchecking before going into production of these shoes.

These shoes have been out for about six months and (I am guessing) in development for about a year before that.  Did anyone at Nike notice this mistake?  I am sure other sneakerheads have blogs and forums on this, I am too lazy to look into it.  So, I am claiming to be the first to discover this...for now.

Available in multiple colourways