11 April 2014

Blowing DeLorean Fuse #11

If you have a DeLorean, then you most likely have blown fuse #11.  I have blown this fuse a handful of times...literally, I have blown a hand full of these fuses.  I have bought these 30A fuses in packs of five in more than one occasion.

Fuse #11 controls the radio clock, gear selector lamp, A/C panel lamps, and power windows. Basically, the entire center console blacks out when the fuse is blown.  Fuse #11 is prone to failure. 

As you know, I have been working on the window switches, gear selector lamp, and the A/C panel.  All effected by my favourite fuse.  In the past few months, I have blown this fuse about five times.  Sometimes, it the fuse would blow from just turning on the car.  Most of the time, it would be from operating the windows.  Imagine the fear I felt when driving along and needing a little air.  Oh, I should open the window.  POP!  Everything goes dark.  I feared that the entire car shorted out.

I had my window switches checked, they worked fine.  Of course they would, they were fairly new and I had spend a lot of time making sure they worked right and fit correctly.  Yet, somehow tapping the switch would burn a fuse.  The obvious problem is Lucas Electronics.  The next thing to check is the connector to the window switch.  This is the white part with all the wires that plugs into the actual window switch.

Window switch connector, possible shorting wires
I noticed that some of the 'separating walls' of my connector was cracked.  Operating the window switch, or just applying any pressure to the switch or center console can cause the wires to touch and short out the fuse.  Remember that the new window switches from DMC are longer than the 30+ year old stock ones.  This pushes the connector against the floor of the center console, bending the wires at a severe angle.  This can also cause the separating walls of your connector to crack.  This is why I cut some relief holes to allow the connector and wires to sit stress free. 

Unfortunately, the damage to the separating walls were already there.  The simple fix was to take some heat shrink tubing and shrink it around at least one of the touching wires.  In the image above, the black wire (in slot 2) is a good choice since it is between two wires that can cause a potential short.

Since I have done this, I have not had a problem with shorting out fuse #11.  Good thing, too.  Because, I am running out of ideas as to where the shorts maybe taking place.  Hopefully, this information helps you out.



Martini said...

I'm certainly not doubting your #11 claim, but I've never blown that fuse, ever. You're good with the heat-shrink tubing. Remember, if the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy! (Oh, right. If you're not Canadian, or maybe specifically from Ontario, you probably won't get that quote.)

Unknown said...

Good info, Sir! Mine just popped when installing an updated window switch. Cheers!