Showing posts with label DMC. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DMC. Show all posts
21 June 2016
11 April 2016
Upgrade Engine Coming Soon
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Last photo taken at drop off |
The was dropped off in late December. I was told they would be backed up until about February. No big deal, as I am in no rush. Better to take the time to work out the kinks, anyway. Also, there may be others that have more urgent issues with their cars and I might get bumped.
So, here is the update. They have taken out the old engine and are waiting for parts to arrive from DMC-Texas. The folks at DMC-California will be installing a Stage II system. This will give me a little more power than stock set up.
The car should be ready by early May. Stay tuned.
22 December 2015
Time For A New Engine
Earlier this year, I had an issue with block corrosion due to neglect by previous owners. If coolant is not regularly flushed, it starts eating away at the block. As the current owner, I get to deal with these issues. Yay!
When we last left off, our hero recovered from its injuries. The block had some leaks on the driver's side. Yeah, I said 'some'...as in more than one...leaks. These were patched and eventually the car was working fine. I was told to keep an eye on the situation, check for leaks. Well, guess what I found
One day I noticed a pool of green, on the passenger side, this time. I followed the trail of green apple Jolly Rancher up and found the source. It was at the oil filter. At first, I thought coolant was leaking from the seal. This lead to many theories, including coolant leaking into the oil and out the seal of the oil filter. I even checked the oil make sure it was not contaminated with coolant. Well, good news. Oil is clean. More 'good' news, I located exactly where the leak was coming from.
At the 1 O'clock position where the oil filter meets the block, you can see a nice little green hole. It is a relative small hole, about 3-4mm.
Hard to get lighting and a camera up there, but here is another view of the coolant eating a small hole. After cleaning the area the surface tension of the coolant was just enough to slow down the coolant from flowing out. With the car not running, there is no pressure built. Yet, after a few days I did notice that there was still coolant leaking from the hole.
I sent these images to DMC-California and based on my medical history, the diagnosis is I need transplant. New engine. With the new engine comes upgrades, as DMC no longer installs stock engines. I will be getting a Stage II upgrade which gives me a few more horsepower, I am kinda excited for that.
In the meantime, I did a quick patch job on the hole. Something to keep it from leaking, especially under pressure, and hopefully reinforce the area...at least for the drive down to the shop.
Since I will be getting a new block, whatever I do to it does not matter. So, I decided to patch the hole. As it was hard to get lighting and a camera up in there, it was harder to get access to patch the hole. The car was jacked up with the rear wheel removed. Still, it was difficult to reach above, behind, and around the oil filter. Once the area was cleaned, I mixed some JB Weld and globbed it around the hole the best I can.
After a few days, it seems to be holding, no noticeable leaks. I let the JB Weld sit for a few days to let it cure. Then, I ran the engine for a few minutes to test out the patch under pressure. Granted, I did not push the engine or let it run too hot, but it held. Hopefully, this should get me to the shop with no issues.
Trivia: Six years ago, today, was the first time I saw the car. A month later, I would purchase the car of my dreams. Sure, some the dreams have been nightmares, but you cannot have the yin without the yang. Here is hoping that the new engine does not cause me to wake up in the middle of the night in a cold sweat. Stay tuned.
When we last left off, our hero recovered from its injuries. The block had some leaks on the driver's side. Yeah, I said 'some'...as in more than one...leaks. These were patched and eventually the car was working fine. I was told to keep an eye on the situation, check for leaks. Well, guess what I found
One day I noticed a pool of green, on the passenger side, this time. I followed the trail of green apple Jolly Rancher up and found the source. It was at the oil filter. At first, I thought coolant was leaking from the seal. This lead to many theories, including coolant leaking into the oil and out the seal of the oil filter. I even checked the oil make sure it was not contaminated with coolant. Well, good news. Oil is clean. More 'good' news, I located exactly where the leak was coming from.
Hole in engine block |
Another view |
Tiny hole, huge problems |
In the meantime, I did a quick patch job on the hole. Something to keep it from leaking, especially under pressure, and hopefully reinforce the area...at least for the drive down to the shop.
Ghetto patch job |
After a few days, it seems to be holding, no noticeable leaks. I let the JB Weld sit for a few days to let it cure. Then, I ran the engine for a few minutes to test out the patch under pressure. Granted, I did not push the engine or let it run too hot, but it held. Hopefully, this should get me to the shop with no issues.
Trivia: Six years ago, today, was the first time I saw the car. A month later, I would purchase the car of my dreams. Sure, some the dreams have been nightmares, but you cannot have the yin without the yang. Here is hoping that the new engine does not cause me to wake up in the middle of the night in a cold sweat. Stay tuned.
25 April 2015
DeLorean Maintenance - 2015
DeLorean Motor Company in Hunting Beach, California |
List of things done to the car:
- Fix leak in engine block. Yeah, I know. I was told that "the engine has cancer". The coolant was eating away at the block and caused a leak. They fixed it by plugging the hole. This beats the alternative, which is to replace the entire engine. The fix should last until it fails...so, the cancer can comeback at any time. Ugh!
- Drain, flush, and refill cooling system
- Got a new radiator, because the old was one was leaking, too. Argh!
- Adjust fuel mixture
- Clean electric plugs at coil cover. This was the area causing all those shut offs.
- Stainless steel brake lines
- Flush and bleed brake system
- That damn smog certification
Labels:
California,
DeLorean,
DeLorean Motor Company,
DMC,
DMC-12,
Stainless Steel
22 December 2014
DMC Holiday Ornaments
Special day, today. Five years ago, I went down to DMC-California and took a first look at the DeLorean I would eventually purchase.
This is also a special time of year for most as the Holidays are here, Christmas is a few days away, the year is winding down, and a new year begins as we start 2015. Oh, I have a feeling there will be some exciting DeLorean related things happening in 2015. Actually, I know there are some things planned.
Anyway, I got a package from DeLorean Motor Company. Well, I ordered some stuff, so I was kinda expecting it. Just play along.
I ordered a complete set of DeLorean Holiday Ornaments. Back in 2004, DMC released their first ornament, limited to 500, individually numbered. I noticed these back in the day during my many visits to the DMC website. But, I never got any as they were a bit pricy. Plus, at the time, I did not have a DeLorean. Although, I did have a key blank.
When I finally got my car, it was really pricey to get the set and catch up to the current release of the series. It meant I need to order 'back issues' of six ornaments. I believe they started at $25 and when up as the older they were. The investment would have been around $150-200.
In 2013, DMC ended the series at ten ornaments. Getting all ten would have made about a $350-$400 dent in my wallet. That is almost a price of a left front fender. Having a complete numbered set was not a priority, but I would love a set.
A few weeks ago, DMC sent out their Holiday mailer with a special price of $99 for a complete set of the ornaments (with non-matching numbers). What? For the price of about three ornaments, I could get the whole set? Sign me up! A matched set would set you back $400.
The package came the other day and to my surprise, this is almost a complete numbered set. All but one (2004) had matching numbers. Close enough.
This is also a special time of year for most as the Holidays are here, Christmas is a few days away, the year is winding down, and a new year begins as we start 2015. Oh, I have a feeling there will be some exciting DeLorean related things happening in 2015. Actually, I know there are some things planned.
Anyway, I got a package from DeLorean Motor Company. Well, I ordered some stuff, so I was kinda expecting it. Just play along.
Best wrapping paper, ever |
When I finally got my car, it was really pricey to get the set and catch up to the current release of the series. It meant I need to order 'back issues' of six ornaments. I believe they started at $25 and when up as the older they were. The investment would have been around $150-200.
In 2013, DMC ended the series at ten ornaments. Getting all ten would have made about a $350-$400 dent in my wallet. That is almost a price of a left front fender. Having a complete numbered set was not a priority, but I would love a set.
A few weeks ago, DMC sent out their Holiday mailer with a special price of $99 for a complete set of the ornaments (with non-matching numbers). What? For the price of about three ornaments, I could get the whole set? Sign me up! A matched set would set you back $400.
Complete set of ten DMC Holiday Ornaments (grille emblem not part of set) |
- 2004 - Front view, with doors up. Cast in pewter with painted red bow.
- 2005 - Iconic pose, right side view with doors up. Cast in pewter with "Happy Holidays" In door way and dangling snowflake from door in gold plate.
- 2006 - Rear view with a string of lights along rear fascia. Cast in pewter, painted light bulbs and taillights.
- 2007 - Left side view, with tree on roof (and most likely on a luggage rack). Cast in pewter, painted tree, "2007" painted in red.
- 2008 - Porcelain circle with image of DeLorean and Santa Clause. Includes red ribbon. Rear has DMC logo and list of the six DMC franchises.
- 2009 - Not sure what metal this is cast in. Polished finished of the DMC wheel.
- 2010 - Polished thin metal ornament, with intricate detail. "Happy Holidays 2010" in red
- 2011 - Porcelain DMC logo. Painted in silver with black trim and adorned with holly.
- 2012 - Crystal disc with faceted edge. Image of DeLorean etched.
- 2013 - Polished finish, low front view with doors up.
Labels:
DeLorean,
DeLorean Motor Company,
DMC,
Holiday Ornaments
17 November 2014
Coolant Leak in the DeLorean
A few days ago, I noticed a small puddle underneath the DeLorean. At
first, I thought it was some oil or fuel. Either way, anything
dripping from a car is not cool. I took a sample, no science involved, I
dipped my bare finger in the puddle and noticed it was green.
Obviously, I had a coolant leak.
I drove to work and back a couple of times to see if
it was just a one time thing. Again, I noticed small puddles at the end
of the day. My guess it I lost about 500 ml of antifreeze. I found it
odd that it was dripping off of the frame on the driver's side, since
the coolant bottle is on the passenger side. The location also lead me
to believe that is was oil, since the drip area was near the oil pan.
Upon further inspection, I figured that it was
leaking from the Cooling Fan Switch (100816). Notice the wet spot on
the frame, the coolant was dripping from the switch on to the frame,
then on to the pavement. This made it appear to be 'leaking from the
frame'.
Well, this seems like a job for the pros, way more complex than swapping out light bulbs. Back to DMC-California and have them work on this.
They replaced the 33 year old Coolant Pipe (110131) as well as the Cooling Fan Switch and Cooling Fan Switch Seal (106959). The hoses were replaced in March 2013, so they are pretty much new. This is why you still see the feather sitting there from the time I killed a pigeon.
They also drained, flushed, and refilled the cooling system. I may have been able to replace the pipe, switch, and seal...but the whole flushing of the system is beyond my capabilities, as I do not have the tools nor facility to do that.
So, there you go. Another three decade part replaced with new. Hopefully, this will last a few decades. Now, I am just waiting for the next 33 year old part to replace. I already have something I want replaced the next time I head over to DMC-California. Stay tuned.
Coolant appears to be dripping from frame |
Before: Coolant leaking from the otterstat |
Well, this seems like a job for the pros, way more complex than swapping out light bulbs. Back to DMC-California and have them work on this.
New Coolant Pipe |
New pipe, switch, and seal |
After: No more leaking of coolant |
Labels:
Coolant Leak,
DeLorean,
DeLorean Motor Company,
DMC
07 September 2014
Engine Cover Support Bracket
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My design of the engine cover support bracket |
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Preliminary sketches of the bracket |
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First prototype of the bracket |
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Second prototype, on top |
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Comparing first and second prototype with final bracket. |
I wanted to have the DMC logo featured on both sides. The initial idea was to have negative area of the D (or C, depending on which side you are looking at) as the hook. This is different from the DMC Louvre Brace design as the logo is negative and the have a notch cut of the D (or C) to allow for the engine cover latch.
Notice that my cut out area is not as deep as the 'crotch' of the D. I have stock louvre struts on my car. It is recommended that you get longer struts if you install the DMC Louvre Brace. This raises the louvre and allows the engine cover latch to hook on to the brace. The DMC Louvre Brace will not work with the shorter stock louvre struts. If I ever go with longer struts, I could cut a deep notch in my bracket.
Need longer screws to install new bracket |
Big deal, right? Well, here is the interesting part. I figured they would not be over a dollar so, I used my last dollar to purchase the screws. Yeah, I do not carry that much cash on me. Anyway, the clerk gave me change. At first, I thought, "hey, cool quarter". A Fort McHenry back quarter...not that I know what Fort McHenry is...I guess I could Google it.
Then, I realized that the clerk also gave me a Buffalo nickel. These nickels were in circulation from 1916-1938 (I Googled that). I have no idea when this one was made as the front is almost totally worn away. Only a faint silhouette of the American Indian head and the text was totally worn away. You can see that the back is quite worn as well.
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Installed bracket |
Remove old screws, put bracket in place, replace longer new screws, tighten nuts. Done
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Bracket holding up engine cover |
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Close up of the hook and latch |
The new bracket totally negates the Engine Cover Support Slide Block. Which is okay, since there is no more stress on the slide block and related assembly. Now the stress from the weight of the engine cover rests on the louvre, struts, and rear quarter panels. Again, this is acceptable since the louvres are reinforced with the strips.
If needed, I could always remove the bracket and go back to the slide block taking the weight. For now, I like my new bracket.
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View of bracket when louvres are closed. |
Labels:
Buffalo Nickel,
DeLorean,
DMC,
Engine Cover Support Bracket,
Louvres
18 July 2014
DeLorean Maintenance - 2014
Parked in front of the new DMC California location in Huntington Beach |
Normally, I wait until I need to smog the car to make a trip to DMC. But, this misfire was not something I wanted to wait another nine months to fix.
Off to the new DMC-California location in Huntington Beach. While there, I also had the team replace my Trailing Arm Bolt and Radius Arm Bushing with Inconel TAB's from DMC-Midwest and Polyurethane Bushings from DMC-Europe. Danny suggested Steel Braided Fuel Lines. Why not.
Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Line Kit |
- - Install new Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Lines
- - Install new Injector Nozzles and Seals (all six)
- - Adjust Fuel Mixture, Timing, and Idle
- - Install new Inconel Trailing Arm Bolts
- - Install new Polyurethane Radius Arm Bushings
- - A/C Service Evacuate, Charge, and Leak Test
That is it for this time. I will be back in a few months for my usual maintenance. In the meantime, I have some new parts that are waiting to be installed. Stay tuned, as I will be working on the easier stuff...possibly, even this weekend.
Hot Wheels DeLorean, next to my DeLorean, at DeLorean Motor Company |
24 April 2014
DeLorean Louvre Reinforment Strips
One of the unique features of the DeLorean is the louvres. While there are a handful of cars that have this sunshade, usually covering a rear window, the one the DeLorean acts as one of two engine covers. The prototype DeLorean did not have any louvres, the rear is left open. Some argue that it was added for better aerodynamics and aids in drawing heat away from the engine compartment. While others argue that the addition of the louvre was for pure aesthetics.
Because of its original design, with a thinner center rib, it had a tendency to break. Later designs incorporated a thicker center rib and cross piece to help strengthen the area in hopes to prevent breakage. Still, if you have weak struts holding up your louvre, it can slam down, causing it to break. Or, if you have really strong struts, you can put too much torque on it when closing, and snap the center support. Yeah, it is just one of those things you live with as a DeLorean owner. Luck of the draw.
I stumbled upon some stainless steel louvre strips that I wanted to try. Note that DMC offers a different designed Louvre Brace. Both are designed to stiffen up the center rib and both are around the same price. The DMC Louvre Brace requires longer struts so the louvre can be opened up more to hook the engine cover on the notch. This way, you do not need to use the stock brace to hold up the engine cover. Installation of either brace system should be similar.
The kit comes with two laser cut stainless steel strips and stainless nuts and bolts.
These are precision cut to fit. Since there are two (thin and thick) louver designs, there are two precision cut designs to fit the louvre you may have. Be sure to specify with seller when if you decide to order. The DMC Louvre Brace is universal.
This is a great time to say this, follow the instructions when installing these strips. While I did read through the instructions several times, the stupid voice in my head decided to do this a different way. So what could have been a forty five minute (tops) exercise, turned out to be a two and a half hour workout. Now, back to your regularly scheduled program to see where I went wrong.
I marked where the holes would do so I can drill them out later.
I thought about leaving the stainless steel finish, but I wanted the strips to blend in better. There is an option to have a brushed finished, to match the body panels, at an additional cost. Since mine were not brushed, I decided to spray them with good old SEM Trim Black.
One of the reasons I did not follow directs was I did not want to remove the louvre to do this. Another reason, I did not have a drill that was small enough to fit into such a tight spot. Luckily, I had a Dremel with flexible shaft attachment.
Event with the attachment, you can see there is barely enough room to maneuver. I was also limited to the size of the bit, so there was a lot of hand finishing with files.
Needless to say that marking the holes can lead to slight misalignment with the holes in the strips.
One of the obstacles is, you need to line up both holes of the reinforcement strip, along with the hole in the central brace...and you need to do this with all eight holes. Even if I followed the directions word for word, there is a very good chance that all twenty four holes will not line up.
The laser cut holes in the strips leave little room for error. If you drilled the holes at a slight angle, it would not meet on the other side. Obviously, my holes were not at right angles, even with using the attachment. Good luck getting right angled holes using a standard girthy drill. To correct the misalignment, I had to dry fit each bolt with both strips in place and re-mark each hole. Then file away at the like I am breaking out of prison. Luckily, the louvre is made of fiberglass and not steel.
The bolts that come with the kit are a little long and can bottom out on the dome nuts. These were provided since there are variable thicknesses in the center brace, even on the later wider versions. To solve this, the instructions suggest cutting the bolts. I have a tap and die set for such and occasion, but I realised that adding two washers is way easier than trimming and re-cutting the thread in eight bolts. Last thing I need is to mess up these nice bolts...and I am already going into overtime on this as it is.
The DMC Louvre Brace is one sided, so it would be a lot easier to install. Although, you would need to factor in the time to swap out longer struts. Knowing me, it would have taking me about three hours to do, also.
After installation, there is a noticeable difference in stiffness in the louvre. I noticed that there was always a little flexing and torquing when closing a stock louvre. With the strips, there is still a little of this flex and torque, but way better than without the strips. It also seemed to fix the misalignment of the louvre as used to sit a little to the left and I would have to guide it down and to the right. Now, it can just close straight down without rubbing the sides.
Final review, one less thing to worry about, totally worth it.
Because of its original design, with a thinner center rib, it had a tendency to break. Later designs incorporated a thicker center rib and cross piece to help strengthen the area in hopes to prevent breakage. Still, if you have weak struts holding up your louvre, it can slam down, causing it to break. Or, if you have really strong struts, you can put too much torque on it when closing, and snap the center support. Yeah, it is just one of those things you live with as a DeLorean owner. Luck of the draw.
I stumbled upon some stainless steel louvre strips that I wanted to try. Note that DMC offers a different designed Louvre Brace. Both are designed to stiffen up the center rib and both are around the same price. The DMC Louvre Brace requires longer struts so the louvre can be opened up more to hook the engine cover on the notch. This way, you do not need to use the stock brace to hold up the engine cover. Installation of either brace system should be similar.
DeLorean Stainless Steel Louvre Reinforcement Strips |
Dry fitting the reinforcement strips |
This is a great time to say this, follow the instructions when installing these strips. While I did read through the instructions several times, the stupid voice in my head decided to do this a different way. So what could have been a forty five minute (tops) exercise, turned out to be a two and a half hour workout. Now, back to your regularly scheduled program to see where I went wrong.
Marking holes |
Spraying strips with SEM Trim Black |
Dremel with attachment |
Drilling out the holes |
Look at all that debris |
Pre-installation of reinforcement strips |
The laser cut holes in the strips leave little room for error. If you drilled the holes at a slight angle, it would not meet on the other side. Obviously, my holes were not at right angles, even with using the attachment. Good luck getting right angled holes using a standard girthy drill. To correct the misalignment, I had to dry fit each bolt with both strips in place and re-mark each hole. Then file away at the like I am breaking out of prison. Luckily, the louvre is made of fiberglass and not steel.
Finished installation of the reinforcement strips |
Close up of painted strips and exposed nuts and bolts. |
After installation, there is a noticeable difference in stiffness in the louvre. I noticed that there was always a little flexing and torquing when closing a stock louvre. With the strips, there is still a little of this flex and torque, but way better than without the strips. It also seemed to fix the misalignment of the louvre as used to sit a little to the left and I would have to guide it down and to the right. Now, it can just close straight down without rubbing the sides.
Final review, one less thing to worry about, totally worth it.
11 December 2013
Diffuser Lens for DeLorean Door Lights
Last month, I installed the Door Light Kit from deloreana.com. Although I liked the tic-tac-toe pattern that was showing through the lenses, I wanted to see what it would look like with a diffuser lens.
I took measurements for the lenses. There just happens to to be a recess in the stock lens where a diffuser lens can fit in. Once I had the measurements, I drew it out in Illustrator and had the lenses cut using 0.090" acrylic on the laser cutter.
The acrylic lenses fit perfectly into the stock lens. They are also perfectly clear. Off to the sand blaster.
We did not have any frosted lenses. The next best thing is sand blasting clear acrylic. Now, just pop out the stock lenses, snap the diffuser lens in, and pop them back in to the doors.
The tic-tac-toe pattern is gone. There is a little hint of a hot spots where the LED's are but the results are acceptable. The photo above is not the best. I like the softer glow, I think I will stick with this look.
Tom at deloreana.com, offers lenses for $20 a set. If you do not have access to a laser cutter or too lazy to make your own diffuser lenses, get a set from Tom when you order your LED Door Light Kit.
Taking measurements for diffuser lens |
Six lenses cut from the laser cutter |
Sandblasted lenses |
Diffuser lenses in |
Tom at deloreana.com, offers lenses for $20 a set. If you do not have access to a laser cutter or too lazy to make your own diffuser lenses, get a set from Tom when you order your LED Door Light Kit.
20 September 2013
Custom DeLorean Clock Plate
Early DeLoreans came with a clock, located in the Front Plate (#108240) in the Center Console. It seems that some of these clocks fail through...wait for it...time. Later DeLoreans came with radios with a clock, so the original clock was omitted. Those later cars have Front Plates with no hole.
As clocks stopped working, some were replaced, most were left alone in non-working condition. Once in a while, someone who is way smarter than me will make clocks for replacement. These go for about $100. Not a bad price, actually, a very good price. I almost considered getting one. Since I have a 'modern' radio with a clock in it, I do not really need another clock.
Another option for the 'clock hole' is a plate. Aesthetically, it looks cleaner, as it does not look like a broken clock. It just looks like something should be there...like a clock. While that looks clean, it still looks like something is missing. I have a clock plate in my car.
I wanted to do something different with the plate and give it a 'reason for being'. So, I took some measurements and made a new plate.
It is basically the plate that I already have with the sides extended for holes, so it can be mounted directly on to the Front Plate. I made two versions with different logos, for fun.
The logo adds a little luxury to the center console. It looks like it is almost the intended look of the center console...almost.
Simple custom project that took very little time. Reason being that this does not involve any moving parts or anything essential to the function of the vehicle.
It took about ten minutes to remove the Front Plate from the Center Console and measure the existing plate. I spent maybe ten minutes modeling the part. The longest time spent was waiting for the part to print. Finishing the part only involved spraying a few coats of paint and waiting to dry. Then, removing the Front Plate again and installing the new part. Total time invested was about an hour, not including waiting for print and watching paint dry.
As clocks stopped working, some were replaced, most were left alone in non-working condition. Once in a while, someone who is way smarter than me will make clocks for replacement. These go for about $100. Not a bad price, actually, a very good price. I almost considered getting one. Since I have a 'modern' radio with a clock in it, I do not really need another clock.
Another option for the 'clock hole' is a plate. Aesthetically, it looks cleaner, as it does not look like a broken clock. It just looks like something should be there...like a clock. While that looks clean, it still looks like something is missing. I have a clock plate in my car.
Clock plate in place of where a working clock used to be |
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Measurments of original plate |
Custom clock plates. One with DMC logo, other with Hot Wheels logo |
Custom clock plate installed |
Close up of custom clock plate |
It took about ten minutes to remove the Front Plate from the Center Console and measure the existing plate. I spent maybe ten minutes modeling the part. The longest time spent was waiting for the part to print. Finishing the part only involved spraying a few coats of paint and waiting to dry. Then, removing the Front Plate again and installing the new part. Total time invested was about an hour, not including waiting for print and watching paint dry.
25 May 2013
Tinting DeLorean Windows - Part II, Leave It To The Professionals
After attempting and failing to windows myself, I called the pros.
Apparently, most places like to complete the job within two hours.
Because of the complex doors and shape of windows, the first place I
called declined based on the labour involved. They had done work on
some of my co-workers' cars. So, I contacted Best Tinting as their site and Yelp
shows that they have worked on exotic cars. Surely if they can handle a
Lamborghini, McLaren, or Ferrari, they can handle a DeLorean. The
initial quoted price was $210, but after realizing it was a DeLorean,
they came back with $455 due to the extra time and work involved.
I set up a GoPro camera and used a handheld to document the process. The GoPro snapped a shot every 60 seconds. Unfortunately, it shut off about half way through the process. Maybe it has an auto shut off after two hours. I am still experimenting with it, so must not have the settings right.
The appointment was set for 1PM, they got here a little after that and started examining the car. They would start with the large door windows and work their way around. I went with a light tint on the front. My concerns are with UV and heat, and not with style. I have enough style with the car itself. Yeah, I said it.
They make it look so easy. All this time I thought the stuff on YouTube was CGI. Watching the guy measure and cut the film to size was magical.
Pretty amazing to watch these guys work. If Mr Rogers was alive today, you can bet there would be a video of this on Picture Picture. At least a neighbourhood visit to local window tinting place.
You can see from the pictures how little room there was for him to maneuver. Does not help to have the circle turning thing in the way, at least the other side does not have one.
The first window took them about 40 minutes to install. I can see how this job would not fit in to a two hour...wait for it...window. This is going to take a while.
On to the passenger side. This took a little less time. Still, that odd shaped window is a lot to handle, even for a professional.
These guys are really meticulous, notice the tarp placed inside the cabin to keep the interior from getting too wet from over spray.
As the film curves with the glass, it forms little darts. To get rid of them, a heat gun is used to shrink the film and help form it to the compound curves of the glass. I could be wrong, but I think heating the glass also helps the adhesive stick to the glass better.
While he was fine tuning the fit of the film, he would occasionally need to trim excess film. He would not make more than 3-4 cuts before snapping off the blade to get a new edge. At one point, he was making one cut and breaking off the blade. This is total opposite of me when I was in school, where I would use one X-Acto blade per semester. I would use sandpaper to sharpen my blades. Pro tip: If you use 200 grit sandpaper long enough, it turns into 600 grit. Hey, design school is expensive, you save where/when you can save. I built the model for my Senior Thesis project entirely out of other people's scrap pieces.
Once the large door windows were done, they worked on the toll both windows. Since they were already on the passenger side, they did that first. Again, making it look easy.
One of the difficulties of the windows is, the toll booth window does not go straight up and down. It goes a forward and down. The front corner of the window is at a sharp angle. This makes it hard to tuck in that last last part into the sill. I encountered this problem three times before I gave up. On most cars, the windows go up and down, and usually have a squared edge. Oh, and they do not have gull wing doors.
At this point, my GoPro shut off. Luckily, I have my Sony. Speaking of failure...he had to do the driver's side toll booth window three times before he got it right. This first time, he cut the film a little short and did not cover the front edge. Second time, there was a small piece of film trapped between. The third time was perfect. See, not that easy. Now, I do not feel so bad.
I went with a darker tint in the rear, and this is purely for style. This also seems to be the easier of the windows to work on for a DeLorean...except you have to reach over the rear fascia and around the C-pillar and louver struts to get into the corners.
They used a different technique to form the film to the glass. First heating and using a squeegee with the film with backing on the outside, then again on the inside with the backing removed. Both sides were done fairly quickly compared the the ones on the doors. Again, a lot of care was taken as tarps were used on the engine cover to keep water out.
You can see how dark the windows are using the white sheet as reference. The last window to tackle is the back window. This too, was tricky as is wraps around at the ends and has defrost lines. While cleaning the window, he noticed that the defrost elements were beginning to chip. Since the window is so close to the engine, the heat from the engine prevents the window from ever fogging up. Very few DeLorean owners use their rear window defrost.
After four hours, they were done. I have to say, these guys were very professional. I would recommend them to anyone in the area in need of a tint job. Not only do they do a great job, they immediately redo any window if there is a problem. They clean up as they go, no scrap piece of film ever hit the floor and wipe everything down. Bonus for DeLorean owners, they wipe body panels with the grain. My windows have never been this clean...should have had them clean my windshield. They even removed their shoes before entering the car.
I also recommend having your windows tinted to protect your interior, especially if you do any outdoor driving during the day. Take it from me, unless you really know what you are doing, have a professionals do it.
Update: I made a GIF of the GoPro photos.
I set up a GoPro camera and used a handheld to document the process. The GoPro snapped a shot every 60 seconds. Unfortunately, it shut off about half way through the process. Maybe it has an auto shut off after two hours. I am still experimenting with it, so must not have the settings right.
Driver's side window was done first |
Trimming the film |
Squeegeeing out the bubbles |
Final touches on driver's side window |
Laying out the film on passenger window |
On to the passenger side. This took a little less time. Still, that odd shaped window is a lot to handle, even for a professional.
More squeegee |
Using a heat gun to get the bubbles out |
Tarps in the interior |
Driver's side toll both window |
Measuring and cutting tint film for the small window |
Final touches on small window |
Forming the film to the rear glass |
Aligning the film to rear windows |
Check out my messy garage |
They even remove their shoes before entering the car |
I also recommend having your windows tinted to protect your interior, especially if you do any outdoor driving during the day. Take it from me, unless you really know what you are doing, have a professionals do it.
Update: I made a GIF of the GoPro photos.
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